Thinning the Perimiter

Wood choice logic, brace shapes, braces patterns -- what and why for the "heart of the guitar"
ken cierp
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Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2011 11:23 pm

Re: Thinning the Perimiter

Post by ken cierp » Sat Nov 30, 2013 4:18 pm

Glad it works for you -- just the same it is not a good woodworking/machining practice. The base should always be stabilized. I kind of picked up that notion from 45 years of tool and fixture design -- Man/Machine Engineering. Humans make mistakes, and its best to eliminate as many eventualities as possible. $.02

Tom West
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Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 4:58 pm

Re: Thinning the Perimiter

Post by Tom West » Sun Dec 01, 2013 11:09 am

Ken: The router base is sitting on the top of the guitar. What is not stable about that? The router bit sits about.010" -.020" below the base. A simple jig clamped to the base allows the bit to just cut it's own width.
Tom
"The person who has never made a mistake has never made anything"

ken cierp
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Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2011 11:23 pm

Re: Thinning the Perimiter

Post by ken cierp » Sun Dec 01, 2013 11:34 am

Still don't recommend it -- once you make a mistake and the router tips off the edge and cuts into an area that has already had material removed I am sure you'll than understand the concern. Different strokes for different folks and that's great.

Perhaps a picture of the simple jig clamped to the base would be helpful in detailing your process?

ken cierp
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Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2011 11:23 pm

Re: Thinning the Perimiter

Post by ken cierp » Sun Dec 01, 2013 12:11 pm

I should note using the Teeter "peck hole" process there are two sets of holes the outside set is slightly deeper then the inside rows -- this I found makes the taper sanding process a little easier requiring a more shallow blended taper overall.

Daniel P
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Joined: Tue May 14, 2013 11:00 am
Location: the great Pacific NW

Re: Thinning the Perimiter

Post by Daniel P » Tue Feb 11, 2014 7:46 pm

I think I may try this thinning process this week on the 00-12 I'm building, as I;ve not yet cut the binding channels and I'd like to get a little more liveliness out of the top tap tone.

I'll use my dremel with router base to drill the two set of holes around the perimeter - outside slightly deeper than the inner set. Approx .020 deep.

Random orbital sander with 150 grit OK to use on a sitka spruce top?
Should I avoid the upper bout to be sure I do not effect the neck/top angle?

ken cierp
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Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2011 11:23 pm

Re: Thinning the Perimiter

Post by ken cierp » Tue Feb 11, 2014 8:13 pm

Lower bout, from about the waist curve -- 150 should work just fine.

Dave Bagwill
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Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2011 7:44 pm

Re: Thinning the Perimiter

Post by Dave Bagwill » Thu Mar 06, 2014 10:43 pm

Is this then the procedure? :

1. Lower bout only
2. Holes about .02" deep around the perimiter (right inside where the bindind will sit?)
3. Holes about .01" deep about an inch or so from the .02" holes?

Sand with 150 to remove the holes?

Thanks
-Under permanent construction

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