neck angle fine tune

[Dave Bagwill]

I don't want to confuse you with too much information - I would bolt the neck to the body, tape the fingerboard onto the neck, tape the bridge down in the correct location, put a straightedge on the fingerboard and see where the straightedge is in comparison to the bridge. That picture might really help us out.

[Paul C]

Dave thanks for chiming in. Iam already confused so it really doesnt matter. What troubles me is I believe I have the right angles on the rim and the cheek and still have a gap. a small gap. I thought I could deal with bridge thickness later since I will be making it.I just want to make sure Iam within boundries.

[Paul C]

Do I need to sand the rim to close the gap at soundhole?

[ken cierp]

Paul seems you are asking approval for something you have made up your mind to do.

Basics ---

If this statement was accurate

I believe I have 180 between the two angles. 92 and 88 on the cheek to finger board.

That board would be laying flat all the way across the neck and sound-board/fingerboard extension area , it is not, which means the angles do not add up to 180 degrees --- and I have said from the start as did John the neck heel angle is too steep. That needs to be corrected by slope sanding off material from the heel (top down) -- this will tip the fret board plane up. It should not take much work to get a "straight line"

[John Parchem]

I suggest you leave your top and rims alone until the neck angle is correct. The direction you move the neck to fix the angle will also work toward closing the gap. I think if you muck with you body now you will be sandings a wrong angle into it.

[Paul C]

Thanks guys I will start on the cheek. After that? What should the measurement be at the saddle ?.I have seen and heard all different answers.

[John Parchem]

I like 2.5 mm about 3/32" some use a 1/16". So somewhere around there.