Acoustic Guitar Construction

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Thanks to Ken's recent post, I decided how I would do the nut on this guitar. On a banjo last year I went with the razor saw and needle files. It worked OK for a banjo, but with the effort thats gone into this instrument, its worth having a little better control over the action at the nut.

More thorough photos of the tip cleaners / nut files and a review to follow.

Making progress - after using the KMG Bridge Setter to locate the bridge, drill the alignment holes, I then french polished the top. Next up was gluing the bridge in place.

See many images of luthiers having to set up 3-5 bridge clamps through the sound hole - the KMG SS Bridge Clamp enables you to do it with one tool. I didn't find brad nails that fit my #52 alignment holes as well as I'd like, so two #52 drill bits were used as the alignment pins. Set crews on the outside edge allow you to adjust pressure on the wings. Even on a pyramid bridge there was clearance to clean up glue squeeze out all the way around the perimeter of the bridge.

This is my first post on this forum, but I have to say that I am very disappointed. (not really) I discovered this thread yesterday and read through it all the way to the end (so far). I am disappointed because I have enjoyed it so much and just like a great book you hate to see it end. Daniel, I am extremely impressed with the meticulous work that you do. The presentation of your build is excellent as well. I can only hope that on my first build I can come close to being half as good as yours. I believe that you have a great future ahead of you as a luthier. Keep up the great build an photos, I look forward to them.
Also I just wanted to note that I really like this forum as well. There seem to be a lot of really good posters and threads for me to learn from. Thanks,
Jim Ebert.

Daniel the guitar is looking great. I agree that the Ken's bridge setter and clamp work very well.

Thank you both - great to have encouragement from the forum.

Just a little test fitting of some old Martin open geared tuners I had around. I might have used Grover Sta-tites, and would if this guitar were for a friend, but can't beat using something you already have in the tool box.



Also, I've used one of the standard machinist's tapered reamers to taper the bridge pin holes. I do't know if it is exactly 5 degree (these pins are the standard Martin 5 degree taper) but they fit my test piece very well, as they do in the bridge. Proof in my mind that you don't need one from a luthier supplier to accomplish the task.
Just go very slowly to sneak up on a good fit.