Well, if I'd know you wanted to see that really severe selmer bend, I would have....no, I wouldn't. Sorry..:-)
If I ever do try it, I will use two inside lams of .025", then thin the outside to .040" and give it a try. If I can find some cheap practice sides, I will attempt it and post the results. The .025's will do the bend easily, and the .040, if soaked in super soft for a night, should not be a problem either.
As you know, one of the advantages of the Florentine cutaway is that it does NOT try to pull the rims out of shape, and there is no built-in tension to deal with.
New f-hole flattop
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Re: New f-hole flattop
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Re: New f-hole flattop
A question just for informational purposes - on this instrument I've decided on a 4" height at both the head and tail blocks. I used the method from KMG to draw the side profile using the 15' radius bar and, as one would suspect, except for a small rise at the waist area - the rim height goes from 4" then gradually to 4 3/16" then gradually back to 4" - there is not much of a profile.
Question for the future - because we are dealing with such a small rise, is it necessary to even have that rise?
Question for the future - because we are dealing with such a small rise, is it necessary to even have that rise?
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Re: New f-hole flattop
Looking good Dave, most interesting to watch.
Kevin
Kevin
Re: New f-hole flattop
Question for the future - because we are dealing with such a small rise, is it necessary to even have that rise?
You bet it is!! or else:
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1159
You bet it is!! or else:
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1159
ken cierp
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Re: New f-hole flattop
Just a little kerfing duty this morning.
What I like about my 'BBQ' set-up is that I can glue on one side worth's of kerfing, then turn it on the spit and see if there are any gaps, or squeeze-out to be cleaned up, and it is nice and accessible. Then another side, turn and inspect, etc.
I use the adjustable pvc and cork pads to keep the body at the correct length.
What I like about my 'BBQ' set-up is that I can glue on one side worth's of kerfing, then turn it on the spit and see if there are any gaps, or squeeze-out to be cleaned up, and it is nice and accessible. Then another side, turn and inspect, etc.
I use the adjustable pvc and cork pads to keep the body at the correct length.
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Re: New f-hole flattop
Kerfing finished, side supports glued in.
The first pic shows that I was not concerned about the cracks or gaps, because I was going to laminate a continuous thin strip of mahogany onto the kerfing, giving it a smooth and finished look. It took an extra 10 minutes or so, but I like the look. The strips were just lightly clamped to the kerfing, then a thin drizzle of CA got it nice and tight.
Still need to clean the rim up a bit, then on to the radiusing of the rim.
The first pic shows that I was not concerned about the cracks or gaps, because I was going to laminate a continuous thin strip of mahogany onto the kerfing, giving it a smooth and finished look. It took an extra 10 minutes or so, but I like the look. The strips were just lightly clamped to the kerfing, then a thin drizzle of CA got it nice and tight.
Still need to clean the rim up a bit, then on to the radiusing of the rim.
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