We talked awhile back about ways to hold/maintain the back and top on center to the rims when gluing them down. I have fussed around trying a few different things that sort of worked. If one is REALLy precise when cutting brace end notches in the rims this is probably not an issue to worry about, however I never seem to get a perfect fit of brace ends to notches, which also place the top or back right on center, and hold it there while I glue them down.
I considered this idea as a super simple way to accomplish the task. Although I have not glued the back on yet, I have it ready with the rims notched, and my little positioning blocks glued in place. I used a singe section of kerfing for each block. With the back brace side up on the bench, and the rims in the mold placed over it and both ends on my center line, I simply glued down 4 of these little blocks right up against the kerfing on either side of the neck and end blocks. Now when the back is set on the rims, there is absolutely no play front to back or side to side and when I glue it down, it will not move out of the centered position.
If it doesn't work, I'll let you all know!!!!
Here are a few pics for those who are words-to-pictures-in-the-mind challenged, as I am!!
Kevin
A EIR Dred in the D45 tradition
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Kevin in California
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Re: A EIR Dred in the D45 tradition
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Dave Bagwill
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Re: A EIR Dred in the D45 tradition
That's got to work. I am awaiting your positive results.
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Kevin in California
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Re: A EIR Dred in the D45 tradition
I got the top braces pretty much carved today with just some sanding left to do, the the top is ready to fit to the rims.
I'll post a pic tomorrow hopefully.
Kevin
I'll post a pic tomorrow hopefully.
Kevin
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MarkAndrew1
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Re: A EIR Dred in the D45 tradition
Nice work Kevin. I'm looking forward to the pics....
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Kevin in California
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Re: A EIR Dred in the D45 tradition
The top is done and fit to the rims. Not the neatest job I've ever done, but it is okay.
The humidity has been really low the past couple of days, yesterday 16% and today low 20's. The top and back have lost some of their dome so I've put them in my humidifying tub for a couple of days so they'll get back their shape before I glue them to the rims.
Kevin
The humidity has been really low the past couple of days, yesterday 16% and today low 20's. The top and back have lost some of their dome so I've put them in my humidifying tub for a couple of days so they'll get back their shape before I glue them to the rims.
Kevin
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Kevin in California
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Re: A EIR Dred in the D45 tradition
These things happen to all of us right?
My neck block is about 3/32" thicker than the one on the plans I work from. Yesterday when I was measuring and marking the top to inlet the rims for the braces, I knew my block was thicker, and took that into consideration when I placed a mark on the inside of the top where the edge of the block would sit...placing the top in the right position front to back. I cut my notches in the rims, finesed the fit, set the top in place and saw that I had almost 1/8" less overhang of the top at the neck end of the guitar then I should have based on where I KNEW the top should have fit on the rims. So I took the top off and remeasured and realized I had placed my mark based on the thickness of the neck block on the plans!! Sheesh!
So if I was to glue this top on as it is, my sound hole will be about 3/32" farther down the body of the guitar, and my bridge will end up being 3/32" closer to the soundhole.....get the picture?
It may not make any difference visually, in playability or in sound, but it's not according to plan, so..
I'll widen all the notches so I can move the top toward the neck end to the right position, fill in the slop in the slots with some mahogany and all will be as it should be......another lesson learned.....
Measure 10 times, cut once.
Kevin
My neck block is about 3/32" thicker than the one on the plans I work from. Yesterday when I was measuring and marking the top to inlet the rims for the braces, I knew my block was thicker, and took that into consideration when I placed a mark on the inside of the top where the edge of the block would sit...placing the top in the right position front to back. I cut my notches in the rims, finesed the fit, set the top in place and saw that I had almost 1/8" less overhang of the top at the neck end of the guitar then I should have based on where I KNEW the top should have fit on the rims. So I took the top off and remeasured and realized I had placed my mark based on the thickness of the neck block on the plans!! Sheesh!
So if I was to glue this top on as it is, my sound hole will be about 3/32" farther down the body of the guitar, and my bridge will end up being 3/32" closer to the soundhole.....get the picture?
It may not make any difference visually, in playability or in sound, but it's not according to plan, so..
I'll widen all the notches so I can move the top toward the neck end to the right position, fill in the slop in the slots with some mahogany and all will be as it should be......another lesson learned.....
Measure 10 times, cut once.
Kevin