L-00 Kmg walnut-spruce log and very basic questions thread.

[mike-p]

Yes, I was terrified to make the first cut but getting into it now! Am dry clamping the end block currently but the bit of MDF I'm using as a caul obviously does not have the same camber as the end block. Even when set up as per Ken's instructions with the neck end overlapping to pull the sides in there is a small gap between as you can see in the pics. Ah, I just realised I need my prompt cards, err, which I havent bought yet, argh. Any other cunning plan? Getting everything lined up with the cauls and the clamps ain't easy even without the glue. Didn't put a clamp on the inside as not so worried about marking the inside of the tailblock. I'm not about putting a tail wedge in which I assume means I can't put the pin tack in to line it up. Re sawing, yes, the blade on my saw is flexible, I did clamp a bit of ply over it to keep it in place, but not up against the line, am learning fast, thankyou all again.

[mike-p]

wedged some side off-cuts in, looks better I think. I will gather courage and then apply the glue.

[TonyinNYC]

If you want to have the MDF caul fit the end block perfectly, wrap the block with and paper, and use it to sand the curve into the MDF. Should take all of three seconds since MDF sands pretty quickly. Then you will have a perfectly matched clamping caul, which is exactly what you want. When I make my tail blocks, I sand them inside of my mold to matcvh the mold curvature perfectly. I then use the mold as my caul to glue in the blocks. Works like a dream.

[mike-p]

Thanks, I actually did think of that after I'd posted, I think I'm starting to get the idea.

[dave d]

Mike, something else to be aware of is that having a caul in place isn't just for prevention of dents/marks in the wood. It also, if thick enough, will distribute the clamping force. For a C-clamp or an F-clamp, the area of contact of the clamps is quite small, and the force exerted by them will be imparted almost only in the immediate area of contact. By using a caul under the clamping point, you will help distribute that force over a wider area. The result is that you get a larger area of contact between the gluing surfaces. You don't necessarily have to have one caul of the same size as the block; 2 or 3 cauls, say an inch wide by 5 inches long by 3/4" thick would work too.

Alternatively, you can use clamps that have a large contact area on the wood, as shown below. I can't recall if this was an actual glue-up or just a trial run, but I just wanted to show a photo with the bessey parallel-jaws clamp.
Dave

[ken cierp]

Ditto Dave --- That is what I meant in the instruction where I indicate more "clampage" may be necessary. Don't forget the stabalizing pins when gluing the neck block.

[mike-p]

OK! End and neck blocks glued on, not perfect but I think they're ok. Some pics of clamping and gluing, made holes in the MDF caul so I could leave the pins in as I wanted to be sure the edges were flush. Everything isn't perfectly straight but I think after sanding all will be well. I've got three MDF bars of various shapes in my sucess kit, just wondering what is what? Thanks all.