How much do x-brace inlets really matter?

[Dave Bagwill]

Tony - glue??? Or mushrooms??
Anyway I too lol'ed.

[Kevin in California]

Tony, man, you were the first one to read about my new product. Thanks for giving the free endorsement. I'll have your order on its way just as soon as I figure out how to get the adhesive to stick to the back of that roll of blue paper.

Kevin

[Dave Bagwill]

Kevin I don't know how serious you were - we have the 'fog of mirth' around here today - about the small spruce pieces to align the top and bottom for gluing, if we are not using brace notches for locating purposes - but it would work! I have been using a couple of brads into the headblock to locate up front, but in back, those pieces of spruce or a short section of dowel glued under the top and into a matching hole in the endblock would provide all we no-notchers would need.

[Kevin in California]

Actually amoungst all the mirth, I was serious about that means to for locating using the little blocks. Even with my inletted braces, because the fit is never perfect, I have to tweak things to fit. I'd rather leave a little wiggle room, and use the "new" block locating system. I am serious that I will try it on this build. I will line things up and glue on the blocks before I even brace the top. I'm probably a couple of months away because once my daughter and her family arrive from India in about 3 weeks, I'll be out of the guitar shop for a couple of months.

Kevin

[TonyinNYC]

Kevin,
Here is a thought about your locating blocks:

Since we want to have the linings go all the way around the guitar, I often have to add a block or half a block of lining to fill in next to the tail blocks. Why not intentionally leave out a small section of lining, which will be glued to the sound board as a locating block. Then, when you glue it all in, you fill the last space next to the tail block, and locate your sound board at the same time!
You may have thought of this, but I figured I would put it out there.
I think the execution of this method, and getting a tight fit all around, will prove more difficult than I am picturing.
Were you going to only glue the locating blocks to the underside of the sound board and not to the rim? If so, are you concerned about rattles/ buzzes?

[Kevin in California]

That is a good idea Tony, and I had not though of using kerfing as the locating block, but that would work. No one is going to see these blocks, but I like the idea of a seamless look. My thought was to glue them to the underside of the top, not to the sides. I can see no reason for these to come loose but I'm thinking small in area and thin (if I don't do the kerfing block thing), just enough hanging down to catch the side of the block.

Place the braced top on the workbench, braces up.
Lay the assembled rims in the mold over the top and center it on the top center line and in position end to end.
Glue the little blocks onto the top on either side of the neck block and the tail block. Let dry :>)

There you have it. If you did it right, the top can only go on center when you glue it on.

I will fully document the procedure in my next book.

Kevin

[TonyinNYC]

It does seem like an excellent way to do it. I may even give it a try...not that I will be closing boxes any time soon, but when I do...LOOK OUT!!