Dave's 2nd Build: A KMG J-200

[TonyinNYC]

He is putting the finish on now. He and I have been chatting about finishing the maple to make the grain pop. I'm not giving any secrets away, but it looks fantastic based on the pic he sent me. Really, really fantastic. It helps when you start with killer maple to begin with, but he kicked it up a notch.

[dave d]

Hey y'all - thanks for the comments to date. Progress has been slow but I'm learning a few things as I do the finish. As Tony said, I was experimenting with a few methods of bringing out the grain and spent a week just trying out different colours of dye. There are a few videos online (The Wood Whisperer and Fine Woodworking for example) about using water-based dye, followed by sanding it back, and then adding another coloured dye, sanding it back, and then an oil-based product to really bring out the grain. In my experiments I found that the WB dye did indeed bring out the grain, but it also toned the rest of the wood a little too much for my liking and I wasn't successful in sanding everything back to just leave the dyed grain. I'm sure that the process works, but perhaps my finishing/sanding skills leave room for improvement, and so I reverted to the tried-and-true method I've used for years on furniture (and which Tony thankfully encouraged me to do) which is using an oil-based stain. I'm using a top coat of brushing lacquer, also new to me so this required more experimentation on sample pieces. It seems like it goes on very thick, but after dr level-sanding really takes it down in a hurry. I think I've put enough coats on now and will leave it be for a few days.

On the neck and headstock I used a polymerized tung oil, and it turned out great. I didn't stain the neck since I wanted to have a clear, sparkly maple figure showing, and I didn't want to get any stain on the headstock's walnut veneer as it looks nice with just the tung oil soaked into it. This finishing method is pretty-much foolproof (possibly made for me) as you wipe it on, let it sit for 5-10 minutes, and then wipe it off and let it dry overnight. Some steel wool will buff it up, and then repeat for 3 or more coats and it builds to a very smooth, hard finish.

I still have to work on the bridge, saddle, and nut, and hopefully will string it up by the end of the week, although I guess the lacquer won't be in a 'buffable' state by then so we'll see if that happens.

cheers!

[RDavis]

Hello Dave
Very nice construction and documentation to boot. As someone that has yet to build his first guitar this is great to follow the progress. I am trying to learn all I can right now as I am waiting on my first kit to come from Ken. Please give us the finished pictures when you have time.
Ron

[dave d]

I've installed the tuning machines. The veneer on the headstock is french walnut.

[dave d]

I added some MOP to the fretboard and bridge. First time doing inlay!

[Dave Bagwill]

Very nice, Dave! How easy/hard did you find the inlay work? Any tips?

[John Parchem]

Wow!!

The head stock veneer is amazing. Nice work. The bridge looks good as well.