Binding Butt joints

[ken cierp]

Obviously one of the things that defines fine craftsmanship is tight fitting joints. Light wood binding joints can present a problem since they are made in four separate sections thus requiring perfect joints in three places -- the one under the finger-board is not a concern. The way I deal with this issue is to not use butt joints. A scarf joint is the way to go, the over lapping angles always fit tight and can actually conceal a bit of miss match. Here's some pixs of my tools and process. The tiny miter box (screwed to the bench) and the spring clamps are a must for accuracy. You have to decide where you want the seams to fall in relationship to the center-lines, but the joint is almost invisble so it does not matter too much. I believe its self explanatory -- but I'd be happy to provide further insight.

[Dave Bagwill]

You can also run one side of the binding longer and do the scarf joint where people don't normally look, away from the center line. Of course with pre-cut binding strips that is not really an option.

[TonyinNYC]

I have read that not gluing the actual scarf or butt joint, just glue the binding to the body, also helps to conceal it because the glue darkens and highlights the joint. I don't know if that is true because I have never tried it without glue.

[peter havriluk]

Wonderful advice here. And it caused me to think of applying its principles to my first binding adventure wherein I, at least today, intend to laminate wood bindings so as to be able to apply wood bindings without pre-bending them. Thin stuff will tolerate being bent into shape. But I can also place my joints for any particular layer in different places.

Thanks for making me think.

[Dave Bagwill]

The way I do it. Normally do all 4 sets at once.

Edit - geez Dave, a little explanation please? Sure :-) - mold made out of bendable plywood in 3 laminated layers; the binding is 3 pieces - walnut, poplar, eir, each at .040", glued using liquid hide glue (Old Brown Glue heated to 100*) and then placed on the mold, taped down to hold in place, then stuck in the vacuum bag. The fit was great after removing from the bag.