An experiment that just may work

[Dave Bagwill]

I wanted to solve a couple of kerfing 'problems' - first, the extra day for RR kerfing. I've got the time, but sometimes get impatient. Second, my kerfing will break, which is not a biggie, but even so the joint to look good takes a little attention I'd rather not spend time on. And it never looks just right, and sometimes it breaks twice on a side. More a reflection on me than the kerfing.
In my favor, I now laminate my sides, and they are plenty stiff enough to keep shape outside the Mega Mold, so it is conceivable that with the right key I could, once the blocks have been glued and I have a rim, keep the rim out of the mold and install all the kerfing at one time. With plenty of clothespins and small clamps. Plus the tackiness of the fish glue I'm now using has its advantages.

The only missing thing was how.
One of the by products of the laminating process is that I end up with some extra, long and thin (.045") hardwood strips. Very flexible, difficult to break, easy to cut with a pair of scissors.

So here's what I did. I measured everything and cut everything I needed, including the laminate strips which I cut to 1/2". I used a scraper to get oxidation off the kerfing and thinned it a bit to make it more flexible.
I glued on the RR kerfing letting it break where it would, and not worrying about it. (I did not take the extra day to wet it and form it). The whole guitar, I glued on the kerfing, since it was all precut it went fast, and the fish glue held it well without slipping around while I clothes-pinned it.
Then I took the pins off one section of kerfing, from block to block, and laid the laminate strip - premeasured - on it with fish glue, then put the pins back on.
It looks good! The long unbroken laminate gives an excellently clean look; this time I used poplar because I had it, but it's easy to match the kerfing color or use other contrasting woods.
It takes maybe 20 minutes longer, but that gets the entire instrument done, looking good, and none of the nagging little fixes to make the joints look better.

Takes longer to describe it than do it, it actually goes quickly.
I will be sloping the top and radiusing the back tomorrow, so those pix will show it all cleaned up; the few pix here are just a recap of what I wrote above.

The funky tool is a $5 purchase from the habitat for humanity re-store store. It rips those 1/2" strips real well.
Did that for all four kerfing sections.

[TonyinNYC]

Seems like a good idea. Charles Fox made a lining with a rebate in it specifically designed to accept a cap like you have done. When finished, it does look great.

[Dave Bagwill]

I'll check out the Fox, thanks.

[Dave Bagwill]

Cleaned up nicely; my method from now on. Easy, breaks in kerfing do not matter, clean look. Overall, for me, a time saver.
I can do this with wood that matches or contrasts just as easily.

[TonyinNYC]

Very slick Dave!

[Kevin in California]

Nice idea and it looks to have worked out well for you.

Kevin

[Dave Bagwill]

The other alternative, which I'm experimenting with, is laminated linings - 5 thin strips (around .05" x 5 = .250") glued together and vacuum bagged in the mold for a perfect fit. A little extra work, but by using lams of the same wood type as the back/sides, gives a very attractive look that is only a by product of the extra stiffness that is imparted by the double sides.