wood binding - - - bending and installation

[peter havriluk]

I am anticipating my first binding installation. I intend to install wood bindings. I'm not fixated on any particular species of wood, but I would like to know which ones are easier to bend. I'd also like to get a heads-up on how bindings get pre-bent, as I'm thinking that doing the bends in situ during installation is a whole lot of extra effort/trouble and while there are techniques that will get me past the headaches, I need to know what those are. And at that point I'm lost. I've fished around and I've found lots of discussions involving tape, rubber bands, and clamps, but not much about what to do before the glue pot is brought into the picture.

Thanks very much.

[ken cierp]

First off -- hot hide glue is a poor choice for binding installation. You need to give yourself time for adjusting and retaping etc. As a matter of fact I recommend this product for wood bindings

http://www.garrettwade.com/special-slo- ... /62J04.01/

Peter you certainly can do as you wish, but dealing with the HHG is something I would recommend be saved for build #4 or 5 if ever -- heck Wayne Henerson uses PVA (titebond) and so does our own Preston Thompson these guys are world renown premo -- guitar makers. Please this comment is not intended to start the ever ending debate just a recommedation for an easier more successful path for a new comer.

Anyway wood bindings need to be pre-bent we use our regular bending machine to accomplish this task -- you can do the job on a heated pipe as well -- it takes time. I thin bindings to about .075" Bloodwood is the only wood that has given me problems over the years all other the woods bend very easy.

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/SIDEBENDER.html

[ken cierp]

Oh and regular "Elmer's" white glue is a good second choice for wood bindings.

[peter havriluk]

There's more inferring going on here than I thought I was implying....'glue pot' is intended to be a colloquial term for adhesives in general. No reference to hide glue at all. I have no interest in the stuff. But I appreciate being warned off overcomplicating processes for no practical reason. Stuff's tough enough without dragging in excess baggage.

[Kyle Barbour]

I've heard alot of folks bring up the use of fish glue lately in the binding discussions. I've never used it but would like to on my next binding attempt. I've also read about the use of surgical tubing to wrap the bindings and pull them in tight after the glue up. This all sounds better than the ca glue method I've been using, although it has worked.

[ken cierp]

What is the advantage of fish glue over say Elmers or Titebond for bindings, is it slow drying? I agree the CA method can be a bit nerve racking and I really do not recommend it for the new comer -- Plus it takes the prep time of lacquering the channels. But then again, its not a bad idea seal at least the sound board to help prevent tear-out when removing the tape.

[TonyinNYC]

Fish glue has a longer open time and does not need to be heated like HHG. I think the open time is 15-20 minutes or so.

I like the idea of using it with the roping method of getting the binding tight. I have been using rope to pull everything tight and then wicking thin CA into the joints to stick everything together. It has been working very well for me for the last umm....well...every guitar I have made except my first. But CA is toxic and I want to move away from it. Maybe rope and fish glue or the slow drying glue Ken linked to could be my answer.
We shall see.