Archtop prewar L5 style build

[ozziebluesman]

Hello to you all,

My name is Alan and I live in Tropical Queensland Australia. I have been building for many years, it is so good to be able to keep learning at the age of 74 yrs.

This build is a proposed build using the Cranmer Archtop Prewar plan. It will be a non-cutaway, 24.75-inch scale using Genuine Mahogany for the back and sides, Figured Queensland Maple for the neck, East Indian Rosewood headplate, back plate and fingerboard. The last most important ingredient is the top. In Australia it is very difficult to source spruce for a suitable top so I am using Bunya Pine, an Australian timer used my Maton and Cole Clark here in Australia. I was first introduced to Bunyah Pine during my job at our local Music Store. That was in 1996 and I was more than impressed with the tap tone, wood suitable for carving and its sustain properties. It is not anything like Spruce but is more than suitable to use as a Archtop build. We will see in the future how it pans out but I am confident it will sound unique.

A few project pics have been added for your perusal.

Thanks for looking

Cheers

ozziebluesman

Alan

[Herman]

Hi Alan, Welcome!
Looking good. I never heared of Bunyah Pine. Remarkeble silouette of these trees. And nice colors, almost Red Gum/Walnut like. But quite expensive as I can see from here. Let us know how it goes. We like something different now and then.
Herman

[John Parchem]

will love to see this guitar progress. I have not built a carved top guitar.

[ozziebluesman]

Thanks to you both Herman and John for the welcome.

Herman the first pic you see is of the back and sides. It is Genuine Mahogany.

I don't have a pic of the Bunyah Pine top but that will come soon. Presently I have been making the neck and that is a lengthy process as the geometry is different to a flattop build. More pics to come in the mean time here are a few more.

If you have any questions or comments fire away. I am not a professional builder, self-taught off YouTube and do not profess to be an expert. As they say the school of hard knocks. In saying that I have had some very successful acoustic builds using a lattice bracing on the lower bout.

Cheers and thanks

Alan

[Kevin in California]

Hi Allen and also welcome.

An archtop is a pretty big undertaking but also fun.

I made my one and only one off of Benedetto plans; a 17"
flame maple and spruce. It is a cutaway and I put a Benedetto end of fretboard pickup.
Tried to do a sunburst and it is just okay.

I like how it plays and sounds.

I hope you really enjoy the process. If you can show us your steps along the way.

Kevin in California

[ozziebluesman]

Hello Kevin and thanks for the welcome.

Like yourself I built two Archtops in 2012 and 2014. I was happy with both builds but acoustically they were not all that successful. I too followed the Bob Benedetto book and plan.

This time I am placing more emphasis on carving the top and back to try and achieve better tone acoustically.

Your build looks great you should be proud of it. Thank you for the pics. It is not an easy build, and you need the best part of 300 hours to finish these guitar builds.

What else Kevin would you like to see other than progress pics? I would like to make my post interesting.

Here are a few pics of my first two Archie builds.

The first pics are archie #1 Lutz Spruce, Queensland Maple back sides and neck. Ebony appointments

The second lot of pics are archie #2 Englemann top Kauri pine back and sides. Ebony appointments.

Thanks again for your interest

Cheers for now

Alan

[ozziebluesman]

Here are a few pics of bending the sides. The guy I bought the Mahogany off sent me three side pieces. At first, I'm thinking a nice soprano ukulele in Genuine would be a treat. However, after starting the bending all was well the first side piece but the second one had some borer pin holes in the side piece, and it had to be on the waist. The second side piece bent ok, and I thought I was smart being able to pull off a trickey bend. Everything seemed alright although these fine borer holes showed up on one side of the side piece and not on the outside. Still thinking I got away without a cracking issue arising I was ready to glue the heel block and tail bock in. On acoustic builds I glue the blocks in while still in the mould and leave for about fifteen minutes. So far so good and I take the sides out of the mould so I can clamp the block glue joints and snap crackle pop. The side cracked right on the waist. The broken side then had to be removed from the tail block and headblock. Hmmm, lucky for side number two being available so I bent it to fit the mould and then bent two patches over the vulnerable waist area and phew, job done.

Thanks for looking

Cheers

Bb