Glue and torrefied wood

[John Parchem]

Wow, I never ran into anything other than thin CA wicking in like that. I will keep to titebond when I have exposed end grain.

[Hans Mattes]

A couple of coats of shellac does a pretty fair job of preventing wicking. I been using "super thin" CA to fasten abalone rosettes (and most of my bindings & purflings) and, after some issues with CA wicking in spruce, I started sealing with shellac. It works well.

[Carl Dickinson]

I've got a pic like Han's , tinted epoxy/Sitka top/ segmented burl rosette. Grrrrrrr! That's when I started sealing with shellac. No problems since.

[Dave Bagwill]

Ok, got a problem.

I removed the bridge for a couple of reasons - that went well, the fish glue released cleanly, and I've re-sanded the top and removed the first finish coat. The first reason was, like I'd mentioned previously, the fish glue had left a 'shadow' around the bridge. I was able to mitigate it a bit with sanding but was not totally satisfied with it.

The second problem is with the torrefied wood and the finish. I'm using tru-oil as I've always done, but it will not go on evenly, in fact the first application left a horrible-looking splotchy top that would not level out. So it had to come off but now I'm wondering what to use as a finish. Others have stated that lacquer can be a problem as well, but Bourgois and others have used it successfully.

Any of you fellers successfully finished torrefied wood?

[Dave Bagwill]

Update: Stubborn, I am, so after a careful sanding clean-up, I tried the TO again, and it went on beautifully. Don't have an explanation for that first aborted attempt. But all is well now...

[Herman]

Good for you!
Fwiw:
The clear laquer I used before gave no trouble.

[Dave Bagwill]

I think there must have been a contaminant on the wood that I had not fully removed. The TO is never problematic.