So, I'm going to glue a pinless bridge to a torrefied top.
I've heard stories, probably you have too, about difficulties some guys have had with bridges popping off.
I contacted Bourgois guitars a couple years back and asked for advice on this matter, and I mentioned that I'd heard that fish glue, left to cure for 24 hours, was a good method. The tech at Bourgois said yes, that was 'one of their strategies' for torrefied wood. But he would NOT share the other 'strategies'. Like my one-man one-cat shop might suddenly be a threat to their business? Prick.
In any case do any of the homies here have any 'strategies' for this? Have you had good luck with any different glues or methods?
Thanks.
Glue and torrefied wood
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Glue and torrefied wood
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Re: Glue and torrefied wood
I've used both LMI fish glue and LMI "Instrument Glue" (a modified Titebond-like glue) to attach bridges to torrified tops (and to tops of redwood, cedar, mahogany, and several flavors of spruce). I always let the glue dry, well-clamped, overnight, and I always attach the bridge before applying finish to the guitar, as I don't have the skill to cut through the finish without also cutting deeper into the fibers of the top -- and that's a recipe for a loose bridge. I've never had a bridge come loose. YMMV.
Re: Glue and torrefied wood
Dear Homie,
The torrified woods I used were very typical at moisture contact.
Normaly water or wood glue sucks into the wood instantly, but the torrified woods did let the moisture sit on top as a drop. As it does not want to make contact at all. Water on oil.
After reading about fish glue, I used that and after several years now, the bridges are intact.
Attention: fish glue dries very slow, so clamp a day.
FWIW
Herman
The torrified woods I used were very typical at moisture contact.
Normaly water or wood glue sucks into the wood instantly, but the torrified woods did let the moisture sit on top as a drop. As it does not want to make contact at all. Water on oil.
After reading about fish glue, I used that and after several years now, the bridges are intact.
Attention: fish glue dries very slow, so clamp a day.
FWIW
Herman
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Re: Glue and torrefied wood
Thanks fellers. Good stuff.
One more: what about liquid hide glue?
One more: what about liquid hide glue?
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Re: Glue and torrefied wood
No opinion
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Re: Glue and torrefied wood
There also is the matter of gluing the braces to the torrefied top. The braces themselves are not torrefied.
I'll be using fish glue, which I've had for 5 years and voila! - it is still viable.
Leave clamped for a day - not as critical as for the stress-bearing bridge, but prudent anyway.
Some high end repairmen and builders will microwave their brides - I mean bridges oops - to 150° F right before they glue the bridge. I'll probably use a heat gun on the braces to do the same thing.
I'll be using fish glue, which I've had for 5 years and voila! - it is still viable.
Leave clamped for a day - not as critical as for the stress-bearing bridge, but prudent anyway.
Some high end repairmen and builders will microwave their brides - I mean bridges oops - to 150° F right before they glue the bridge. I'll probably use a heat gun on the braces to do the same thing.
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Re: Glue and torrefied wood
Let me get your opinions. I'm ready to glue on a bridge tomorrow, on the torrefied top.
The bridge I made is pinless. In your opinions, should I make a pinned bridge on the theory that it would be less likely to pop off? I will be using fish glue and a 12 hour or longer clamp time.
The bridge I made is pinless. In your opinions, should I make a pinned bridge on the theory that it would be less likely to pop off? I will be using fish glue and a 12 hour or longer clamp time.
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