bridge plate

[Dave Bagwill]

If it weren't for the fact that the grain runs parallel with the top grain, I'd use it.
That's pretty much a hard and fast rule, right? - cross-grain bridge plate?

[John Parchem]

If it weren't for the fact that the grain runs parallel with the top grain, I'd use it.
That's pretty much a hard and fast rule, right? - cross-grain bridge plate?

I have heard that as a rule, but why? The plate is in a stack of wood that includes the bridge which is massive in comparison. I thought hard about it and I could not understand why it would matter.

[Dave Bagwill]

Just another sacred cow, perhaps? All traditions seem to have presuppositions, things taken for granted. I suppose the cross-grain could be more resistant to the top splitting right down the center seam - but if it is going to split you've got yourself a problem regardless of the grain direction of the bridge.
I just don't know.

[Herman]

Maybe the rule comes from a time, spruce was also used for the bride plate. That could split if you place it along the grain.
I stick to the cross-grained bridge plate. Lot of wood to choose from and I never had a splitting top or bridge plate.
Not very scientific, but a winning team.......

About the wood. I prefer Padouk, light, stiff, hard and ringy as devils place. But maple is a good second for me.
Herman

[Dave Bagwill]

Anyway, I ended up laminating a couple of pieces of EIR together for the bridge plate. The plate I removed from Mauel's guitar weighed onlyu 10.5 grams; I don't know what wood he used, but it was extremely stiff across grain. It was .100" thick.
My laminated plate was heavier at 15 grams or so, but that was lighter than the plates I made out of Jatoba (stiff but heavy - 20 grams), Wenge (about the same) and 'unknown' - not stiff enough.