Although it looks bad, I have the pieces and can put them back together and keep the neck alignment in place. Looking at his saddle perhaps improve it.
My thought is to clean up the old glue on the poor glue job on the neck block extension, I can tell only part of it was joined, and reglue it and the broken heal block with a structural epoxy. I would use fish glue or titebond hide glue to put the top back together. I thought of using hot hide glue but I really want the open time to get every into position as it is a 3D puzzle piece to fit in. Both the fish glue and the titebond hide glue are cleanable.
Once in and clamped (no glue yet) It looks like I can do a reasonable job of keeping things in alignment with the same neck angle.
I mocked all of the clamps and played until I was able to have a straight edge from the first fret to the current short saddle with an action of about 1 mm. I use the first fret instead of the nut as it results in an action that is closer to the result when strung up. Anyway my reasoning was that going from 1 mm to 2.5 mm of action would add 3 mm to the saddle. Part of the damage when the neck broke off was a missing wedge of mahogany just at the transition to the heel. That missing piece was enough that even when all clamped up the weight of the head stock and tuners pulled the neck back a touch and gave me the exact neck angle I wanted.
To illustrate, I actually switched to a straight edge when I checked it for the real glue up.
Here is where the wood was missing I already filled it with a mahogany patch and have started finish repair
Here it is with the new saddle; there is 2.5 mm action for the low e. The E string is 12.5 mm off the top. The action could be lowered to 2 mm if he wants.
I never promised an invisible repair, the guitar has plenty of scratches and pick gouges so it was not too hard to do a repair that sort of blended in. Well at least the guitar really plays well.
