I think I screwed up big time!

[raulblack]

metrical. If the rim fits better when you loosen a couple of posts -- do so. You do need to replace the material you sanded off the top of the neck block (I still don't understand how that happened)? That angled surface is bad news -- again it should be made (at this point) a right angle, mortise area to the top e

Well I don't see that big of a mess -- if any, except for the incorrect sanded angle on the neck block --- you used a large sanding stick to level the top edge right - not the rotating abrasive bar?

Place the rim in the mold top edge up, that edge should be shimmed so it is the same height from the mold base as the tail-block end, all the way around. Take some pixs of that.

I backed off all the posts by a tiny amount, and the blocks have corrected themselves to right angles. Apparently, I cut the sides just a little too long prior to gluing, such that the mold was too snug. This forced the blocks out of position when flipping the sides. Since the posts only come part-way up the sides when in the top-up position, it forced the upper rim outward (changing the angle of the blocks). This caused the inner edge of the neck block to protrude above the rim, which I sanded off during the "large sanding stick" step.

What is the best way to replace the material I sanded off the neck block. I have some oak hardwood around, but I'm not sure that is suitable? Should I make a thin flatsawn veneer with my table saw and glue and clamp it to the end of my neck block and then retrue the rim?

Here is a photo of the gap:

OneSixteenthGap.jpg (21.22 KiB) Viewed 1239 times

I double-checked the rim height with a dial caliper to ensure the tail and neck blocks are at the same height:

CheckingRimHeight.jpg (32.35 KiB) Viewed 1239 times

And here is a picture of my rim shims. I only used these two:

RimShims.jpg (30.35 KiB) Viewed 1239 times

Thanks to everybody for their help and support. I'm sold on Ken's system. It's brilliant. I wouldn't be able to do this without having embarked on the KMG method. Ken's business model is the best example I've ever seen of how small business entrepreneurship could save America. I know that sounds a bit cheesy, but I'm really impressed.

Raul

[ken cierp]

Thank you guys, for the kind words -- back in the 1960's when I got started in this hobby/business the so called pro's would share "zero" information. As my personal knowledge based increased through research, it became clear that the so called traditional methods were not necessarily the best and rarely were they the most accurate -- so all that KMG has done is remove the cloud and mystique. My goal is to help the hobby builder (and professional's) to use logical repeatable method's --- with the main emphasis on the goals and desired results.

[raulblack]

I put a thin oak veneer on the top of the block and sanded it. It is still slightly high compared to the sides, so I need to very carefully finish sand it flush with the top. I think the problem has been corrected. I'm not sure what to think about mixing woods like that, but I feel the oak is strong and won't result in cracking due to being so thin.

Lesson learned: When in doubt, stop everything and ask questions. If something doesn't seem quite right, do not proceed until you fully understand all mechanical aspects of the problem at hand. If you bull your way through, it can easily cost you time and precision.

OakVeneer2.jpg (41.72 KiB) Viewed 1211 times

OakVeneer.jpg (43.87 KiB) Viewed 1211 times

[Dave Bagwill]

Way to go!

[TonyinNYC]

Nice save!

[Ken Hundley]

This is a solid supporting area of the guitar. You will not have any problems acoustically with what you have done. Structurally, any veneer would have helped....good job.