Glue choices

[peter havriluk]

I understand that a 'removable' glue is appropriate for bridge installation and neck attachment for them what's gluing necks on, but for the rest of the guitar, is it necessary to use these same glues? Titebond makes a no-run trim glue that sounds usable for wood bindings, and to assemble the box, and do bracing, are the other Titebond glues usable in the long run?

Thanks, folks.

[Herman]

Hey Peter,

Titebond is good for all joints, even the removable ones. And very friendly in applying and working time.
The only drawback in my view it the light brown color as soon it is dry.
At the moment I use fish glue. Sticks as hell, removable and it dries clear.
The drawback of this one is it is very sensible to moistrure.

FWIW: If in doubt: go for the Titebond.
2cts
Herman

[John Parchem]

I use titebond as well. I would use titebond original for a bridge or fingerboard. I use fish glue or titebond hide glue for bindings now. They have a long open time allow me to get things tight. Also if there are small gaps the glue line is not as noticable.

[Daniel P]

I have some guitars I've built entirely with Titebond original and some built all with hot hide glue—the build experience, voicing and wood selection made a greater impact on the sound/playability than the glue selection.

Having done enough repairs now to know that this will help the next guy down the line, should repairs be needed, I always us hot hide glue for bridges and top/back bracing.

For longer working times on bindings I'll occasionally use fish glue or tight bond—the same for kerfed linings and blocks.