Why didn't anyone think of this before. For those of us in repair this is a huge deal.
http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Tool_Demo ... B_20180422
Amazing
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Amazing
I've "Ben-Had" again!
Tim Benware
Creedmoor, NC
Tim Benware
Creedmoor, NC
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Re: Amazing
That is cool I had to refinish a WB spar varnish guitar after resetting the neck due to blush around the heel. This tool seems like a no brainer. My only caution on the video I suspect they under represent the wait time in all steps. I get the editing for the short video, but where he says a few minutes he really mean 10-15.
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Re: Amazing
Not sure but it doesn't take long for a heat blanket to loosen the extension so ... I would seriously consider getting this the next time I have a reset come in but that may be a while as I have cut back my repair business considerably.
I've "Ben-Had" again!
Tim Benware
Creedmoor, NC
Tim Benware
Creedmoor, NC
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- Posts: 2746
- Joined: Fri Dec 23, 2011 8:33 pm
- Location: Seattle
- Contact:
Re: Amazing
I also would seriously consider getting one as well as the steam is messy.
Re: Amazing
As I understand it, Ian Davlin is the guy who really set things in motion with his single use Nickel Chromium Wire heaters he talks about here:
http://www.luthing.com/steamless-neck-r ... comment-45
and in this video
https://youtu.be/bUmADZc7JNY
A few guys came back from the Northwoods Seminar last year talking about this approach.
I've popped two necks with the early release HeatStick I have here, and it works incredibly well.
The first dovetail parlor did take 15-20 minutes of heating—I started slow and low at about 300-350F with some water dropped into the access hole, as Ian has talked about before. Then cranked it up closer to what StewMac recommends, I went with 750F. To be clear, I don't think that tip is getting up that hot, it's just what my Xytronic is reading in the body of the soldering iron tip.
I added a few 1/4 pipette bulbs of water to the access hole throughout the process. That really seems to help conduct the heat through the joint better than running totally dry. It didn't product steam at any of interfaces, but likely just helped soften the glue/transfer hear. The void behind the dovetail on the parlor turned out to have a lot of hide glue in it.
Hey, Dylan went electric—and that worked out.
http://www.luthing.com/steamless-neck-r ... comment-45
and in this video
https://youtu.be/bUmADZc7JNY
A few guys came back from the Northwoods Seminar last year talking about this approach.
I've popped two necks with the early release HeatStick I have here, and it works incredibly well.
The first dovetail parlor did take 15-20 minutes of heating—I started slow and low at about 300-350F with some water dropped into the access hole, as Ian has talked about before. Then cranked it up closer to what StewMac recommends, I went with 750F. To be clear, I don't think that tip is getting up that hot, it's just what my Xytronic is reading in the body of the soldering iron tip.
I added a few 1/4 pipette bulbs of water to the access hole throughout the process. That really seems to help conduct the heat through the joint better than running totally dry. It didn't product steam at any of interfaces, but likely just helped soften the glue/transfer hear. The void behind the dovetail on the parlor turned out to have a lot of hide glue in it.
Hey, Dylan went electric—and that worked out.