No 3

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Paul C
Posts: 416
Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2011 3:50 pm

Re: No 3

Post by Paul C » Wed Oct 05, 2016 5:50 am

Yes I carved them after gluing them in. I have read other ways but it seams to work ok.

Paul C
Posts: 416
Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2011 3:50 pm

Re: No 3

Post by Paul C » Fri Oct 07, 2016 8:44 pm

I have been tapping on this top for a couple of weeks and it sounds good. Like a drum! And that is good right?

ken cierp
Posts: 3924
Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2011 11:23 pm

Re: No 3

Post by ken cierp » Tue Oct 11, 2016 9:39 am

I have been tapping on this top for a couple of weeks and it sounds good. Like a drum! And that is good right?
Is it a drum with resonance and sustain?

Once a sound board is attached to the rim one can tell if it has those desirable features in its restricted configuration, generally if a sound board is found to be tight, braces can be shaved to help free it up and make it more responsive. (that's why the back is glue on last) Also, my normal practice is to sand the perimeter of the lower bout rather thin to about 1" inboard.

Paul C
Posts: 416
Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2011 3:50 pm

Re: No 3

Post by Paul C » Sun Jun 11, 2017 8:24 am

Some progress
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Paul C
Posts: 416
Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2011 3:50 pm

Re: No 3

Post by Paul C » Sun Jun 11, 2017 12:02 pm

That's a lot of clamps. Probly an easier way
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Paul C
Posts: 416
Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2011 3:50 pm

Re: No 3

Post by Paul C » Sun Mar 04, 2018 5:30 pm

I'm sure someone has made a similar sanding device for my ledges. It worked good!. Well Kens router attachment really did it.
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Paul C
Posts: 416
Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2011 3:50 pm

Re: No 3

Post by Paul C » Tue Mar 06, 2018 8:18 pm

I do see light coming through the kerfing I hope this is normal?

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