#4 0000-VS

[Michael_K]

Hi guys,

I am pumped up about the build. It will be slow because I am gathering parts a bit as a time. but I wanted to mimic the Gruhn Martin 0000-18S. This is a 12 fret 0000 with a .25 inch deeper body. It is big but not as big as you think. The body is 21 inches long. This master bee's wing mahogany I bought months ago will fit it perfect. I have an African Blackwood fingerboard and bridge as well. I got my mold and side bent and trimmed. I haven't decided how much jewelry to put on it yet.

I am undecided on the top yet. I know I will use a golden era d-18 style bracing with a 25.125 scale.

Thanks for looking,

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IMG_0152.jpg (90.44 KiB) Viewed 1428 times

[Dave Bagwill]

That's some real nice beeswing. Why not find a nice piece of Red Spruce and just go for it?

[Michael_K]

Hi Dave,

I have a AAA Red and some Mastergrade Carpathian coming tomorrow. I am also building a vintage J-45 at the same time from Sinker Hog. I will use these tops on the two instruments. Depending on the taps tones, I will decide. I got the blocks glued in tonight. Sleep is calling ny names after the amount of hours at my day job.....

Regards,

[Kevin in California]

That is going to look really nice under a finish, good start.

[Michael_K]

Hi guys,


I took a break from building because we had another child so have been super busy. I want to finish this 12 fret 0000-18S GE that I am working on.

I was a the Martin factory a few months back on and bought a neck there and pre carved braces from them.

The length of this body is 20 7/8 from end to end.

From the middle of the waist it is about 7.5 inches.

I am sure this depth would change from 8 3x5 cards based on what the Martin braces are radiused and length of the body.

Is there a formula any you could share with me or tell me about how proud to elevate the neck block with the tail block clamped flush?

Best regards,

[John Link]

Mike,

I totally understand about projects that get put on delay. A late friend of mine used to say "Life can strike at any time". Myself I'm still working on a 1965 Guild Brazilian that arrived in parts as a "basket case" a few years ago. I've fixed several, but not all, of the various parts but the thing is still a ways from reassembly time. As far as selecting the right top goes, I think you were spot on when you said you were waiting to see how the ones to select from each sound. Which one did you finally choose?

I believe the "character" of a hand built guitar is a function of the bulider's preferences as well as skill, beginning with the feel and ring of the top and extending to how far up (or down) the "jewelry" (as you nicely put it) ladder one takes it. And there is nothing to lose in taking your time except, of course, the time itself, of which all of us have a finite supply.

One other question: What is your rationale for picking a fairly short scale for a large body guitar? Ease of playing? Bridge location adjustment vis a vis the short neck? The sonic difference that comes from shorter strings, a la many Gibsons? (I have a vintage B-25 and it certainly has a clean sound, but with a smaller type body.)

As far as your question goes, Ken has some excellent suggestions for reconciling the neck with the body on his site for using the Mega Mold.

[Michael_K]

John,

I went with a 25.4 scale after stopping by Gruhn guitar to play the one she is modeled after. I have some master carpathian I will use for the top.

I have the rim and kerfing in. I just need to contour the back rim and sand the neck angle in. I am using a traditional mold. I liked the idea of the 3x5 index cards. I just need to know how many to use or the formula to use myself.

Best regards,