Amrosia and Redwood OM for my grandson

John Parchem · Post by **John Parchem** » Tue May 31, 2016 8:46 pm

She just needs a neck and a bit of clean up. You will need a pretty fast finish process. I have done about 4 instruments with Royal-Lac and have been able to play them within a week or so. The finish continues to harden for about a month. I just pad it on. Once fully cured it resist moisture and even alcohol damage.

Kevin in California · Post by **Kevin in California** » Wed Jun 01, 2016 11:17 am

The neck is about 1/2 done, but not fit to the body yet. I am under the gun, and I will loose the second and third weekends this month to vacation time.......so I have to make big progress this week and this Saturday. I am going to french polish, will try and give it at least a week to set before installing the bridge and stringing it up....I hope!!!

I got the bindings all scraped down last night, it looks pretty good, only 3 or 4 minor gaps needed filling between the binding and purfling on top and back.

Kevin in California · Post by **Kevin in California** » Thu Jun 02, 2016 12:01 pm

Forgot to take pics.
The Indian ebony fretboard is cut to size, slotted with abalone dot markers installed.
The body is all scraped down and sanded flush and smooth to 120 grit. I have the neck fit to the body, and I have my maple "S" logo inlaid in to the ebony headplate.
The truss rod I'm using the the Gotoh 2 way; rod inside a steel square channel. These are longer than some, and the end extends about an inch out of the tenon under the top, even with it starting about 1/2" from the nut on the other end. These rods also have the adjusting nut almost flush with the steel channel. I like to install these where they are flush with the neck shaft under the fretboard, so you have to cut away the top to accommodate the adjusting nut as it will not fit under the top. If you install these rods a bit lower and come over the top with a filler strip, you have to go down at least the thickness of your top, or it still will not fit under the top.
So I'll fit the rod tonight, locate the fretboard placement with pins, locate the headplate with pins and get the headplate glued down. That's the plan for tonight.

Kevin in California · Post by **Kevin in California** » Thu Jun 02, 2016 12:01 pm

Forgot to take pics.
The Indian ebony fretboard is cut to size, slotted with abalone dot markers installed.
The body is all scraped down and sanded flush and smooth to 120 grit. I have the neck fit to the body, and I have my maple "S" logo inlaid in to the ebony headplate.
The truss rod I'm using is the Gotoh 2 way; rod inside a steel square channel. These are longer than some, and the end extends about an inch out of the tenon under the top, even with it starting about 1/2" from the nut on the other end. These rods also have the adjusting nut almost flush with the steel channel. I like to install these where they are flush with the neck shaft under the fretboard, so you have to cut away the top to accommodate the adjusting nut as it will not fit under the top. If you install these rods a bit lower and come over the top with a filler strip, you have to go down at least the thickness of your top, or it still will not fit under the top.
So I'll fit the rod tonight, locate the fretboard placement with pins, locate the headplate with pins and get the headplate glued down. That's the plan for tonight.

Kevin in California · Post by **Kevin in California** » Mon Jun 06, 2016 12:34 pm

This weekend I got the neck basically done and fit to the body. My neck angle gives me 7/16" over the saddle area with NO frets. Because this guitar will be living in India high humidity, I'm going to leave the bridge a little low with more saddle exposed so they can bring the action down easily by adjusting the saddle. Next is to make the bridge, then I'll be ready to clean everything up so I can pore fill the neck and start the french polishing.