table saw question

[Dave Bagwill]

Here are a couple of pix of mine. Give you an idea of what it looks like with the 7" blade.

EDIT: I cannot find a 4" jointer/7" saw ever made by this mfr. I do find 4"/8" and 4"/9" or 10".

[Dave Bagwill]

I found out from the Old Wood Working Machine site that mine is actually a 9" saw. Identified by the number stamped on the underside of the table.

[ken cierp]

Danger Danger -- Warning Warning!! --- where's the belt and blade guards?

Way too scary for me.

[Dave Bagwill]

The belt is behind and below. No stinkin' blade guard - wondering what to do about that.

[Dave Bagwill]

Suggestions for a blade guard? That is the next on the agenda.

Seriously - no blade guard came with the gift of the saw. I'm only going to be doing cross cuts, and I'm working on a sled for those, and there's built in protection on a sled.
Would you go further? What do you people use for a guard? Anything?
Thanks

[ken cierp]

Seems that there should be an attachment point at the rear of the table -- what's that thing blocking the miter slots? Usually the only time the guard is removed is when making dado or slot cuts in those situations the work (material) becomes the guard since the cut is not all the way through. Since you are not cutting full depth and are using a sled (which keeps hands far away from the blade) the standard flip up guard configuration may be limiting and not required for those cuts. But still great care should be taken. For regular operation of the saw it needs a guard -- some view the guard as an inconvenience -- trust me -- Over the years I have seen accidents on the production floor where guards were removed --- the damage to body parts was the real inconvenience.

[Dave Bagwill]

Okay!