Pore-filling saga

[Dave Bagwill]

As we know, pore filling is, in the technical sense, a big PITA.
I've been trying many methods, all of which take <gasp> TIME!!!
I don't got no stinkin' time - so I have a sure-fill method that I just thought up and hope it works.

This is part 1 - filling the back. Part 2 - filling the sides - might be a little tricky - that will be later.

Sand to 220 or so, and clean the dust out of the pores one way or another
Mix 1/4 cup of tap water in a 2:1 ratio with more tap water - by WEIGHT - I use a triple-beam balance because I'm a pro - not by volume - which is, like soooooooooooo not-pro.

First step is to pour enough water on the back to flood it, so to speak - being careful not to let any spill over the sides. Duh.
Watch for a few minutes to see if any dry spots appear and if they do, add a little more water.
I let this heavy coat cure overnight.
The next morning, you want to remove the standing water from the back, down to the wood. For this - and again, I'm a pro - I use a spokeshave from Veritas $250.00. If I'm in a hurry, I'll use an electric ROS with lots of little holes in the sanding disc to allow free flow of the water. But I get more satisfaction out of the old-ways-are-best scenario.

You will find that this method does not make a lot of nasty sawdust. Again, duh.

Now inspect the pores, and you will see that they are filled to the top, perfectly, with the water. I take the extra professional step of packing in the water a little tighter, and then a liiiiiitle more, to eliminate any chance of shrinkage.

.Some people will like it so much at this stage that they will give it a quick steel-wooling (Liberon oil-free brand) and call it good - and it will look good - but I do a second and third coat - lighter coats this time - and then spray on the final coat of water thinned 50% with water - be sure to clean your nozzle - no not that nozzle, Herman - and let cure for at least 1 year.

The sides are another story, because one must be very careful when pouring on the first coat of water; go very slowly so it stays in place around the corners and does not spill onto the top or back. Build it up thick and proceed as above.

[John Parchem]

That's one way to do it. Are you tired of all of the other sure fire methods?

[Dave Bagwill]

Yes I am, John. I'll be finishing up the build on that manzer-wedge granadillo pretty soon, and will not have to pore fill. I may just buy a few dozen billets of granadillo and start up D. Bagwill Granadillo guitars.

[Jay McClellan]

Nice Dave, but that still sounds too time-consuming. I plan to use this tool that fills and polishes in one step, haven't tried it on a guitar yet but you can see the fast build-up I got on this concrete countertop:



The finish is still a little wavy in the photo but it smooths right out as soon as I shut the tool off, no buffing required. As you can see it's not limited to horizontal surfaces either so it should work just as well on the sides.

[Dave Bagwill]

You are the MAN!! Cannot believe I did not think of that!!!

[johnnyg]

Have you considered heavy water for the sides? Might stay in place better. Just a thought...

[Dave Bagwill]

Now you're just embarrassing me - no I did NOT think about the heavy water - an excellent point.
I was thinking that maybe folding the water, or molding it into shape before putting it on the back, might be a good idea though. But for that you would need a thicker medium, so maybe a 1:1 water-water ratio would be best.