KIS ---- several #64 rubber bands will work fine. The spring on one of my drill presses broke and that's how my spindle return has worked for about six years now -- you will have to replace the bands occasionally.
Arbor press adaptation
Re: Arbor press adaptation
ken cierp
http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/
Store Front
http://www.cncguitarproducts.com/
KMG Guitar Kit Information
http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/ki ... ckage.html
http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/
Store Front
http://www.cncguitarproducts.com/
KMG Guitar Kit Information
http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/ki ... ckage.html
-
- Posts: 1489
- Joined: Thu Dec 22, 2011 1:22 pm
- Location: Asheboro, NC
Re: Arbor press adaptation
I did that, here it is hard at work. I have a friend who is a gun smith and he did it for me on his lathe.
- Attachments
-
- 59 Fret Pressing.jpg (213.75 KiB) Viewed 1449 times
I've "Ben-Had" again!
Tim Benware
Creedmoor, NC
Tim Benware
Creedmoor, NC
-
- Posts: 61
- Joined: Sat Feb 01, 2014 7:41 pm
- Location: Saranac, MI
- Contact:
Re: Arbor press adaptation
Mine is a fairly cheap Palmgren arbor press from Enco and it came with a punch set so it already had a hole in the column and a magnet to hold the punch. The hole was a bit bigger than the shank of the StewMac cauls so I just needed a bushing around the shank, and the magnet is strong enough to hold it in but I can easily switch back to a punch. I used a little bungee for a spring return and I attached a socket on the other side of the shaft so I can plug in a torque wrench to press in every fret with the same force, works nice.
Edit: I realize using exactly the "same force" on every fret may be less than perfect as the fretboard changes in width, but I think that's a relatively minor variation compared to my first attempts without the torque wrench where I either under-seated them or crushed the wood. I just adjust it to seat the frets well in the middle of the range and it seems to work fine across the board.
Edit: I realize using exactly the "same force" on every fret may be less than perfect as the fretboard changes in width, but I think that's a relatively minor variation compared to my first attempts without the torque wrench where I either under-seated them or crushed the wood. I just adjust it to seat the frets well in the middle of the range and it seems to work fine across the board.
Jay McClellan
http://BrainRight.com
http://BrainRight.com
-
- Posts: 984
- Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2012 12:30 pm
- Location: Granby, CT
Re: Arbor press adaptation
Jay, Mr. Goldberg would be proud of you...and the torque setting is.....? (yes, I know, 'enough', but maybe a starting number?)
Thanks very much.
Thanks very much.
Peter Havriluk
Re: Arbor press adaptation
Clever use of the torque wrench!
ken cierp
http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/
Store Front
http://www.cncguitarproducts.com/
KMG Guitar Kit Information
http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/ki ... ckage.html
http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/
Store Front
http://www.cncguitarproducts.com/
KMG Guitar Kit Information
http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/ki ... ckage.html
-
- Posts: 61
- Joined: Sat Feb 01, 2014 7:41 pm
- Location: Saranac, MI
- Contact:
Re: Arbor press adaptation
The resulting force will depend on the diameter of the pinion gear in your press but as a starting point, my torque wrench is set at 35 ft-lbs or 5.5 M-Kgs and that seems to work well for me. I don't know the diameter of my pinion gear but I think mine is a 1-ton press, which I'm pretty sure would be enough to cut a fretboard in half but I bought the bigger press thinking I might have other uses for it.
Jay McClellan
http://BrainRight.com
http://BrainRight.com
-
- Posts: 5951
- Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2011 7:44 pm
Re: Arbor press adaptation
I've not drilled any heavy metal with my drill press. What is the procedure/type of bit, oil etc that I need to consider in order to make the 1/2 ton arbor work?
-Under permanent construction