I'd like to make up some brace stock. I don't want to turn any more of the raw wood into sawdust than I need to. So, what to do? I can pass the bracewood through my bandsaw, but I can't see how that would turn up braces as evenly cut as I'd like, and if I send the bracewood through my 10-inch table saw, a whole lot of my lumber turns to sawdust. Does anyone have a suggestion as to readily-available thinner/smaller diameter circular saw blades that I could install in the table saw?
Thanks very much.
cutting braces from stock
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cutting braces from stock
Peter Havriluk
Re: cutting braces from stock
You can cut .them on band saw a bit bigger than needed then thickness sand them if you have one. Even block plane but I think that would be harder. You could Also use a 71/4 quality circular blade they are smaller kerfed than the bigger ones. Get em local lumber yard
Re: cutting braces from stock
You need to correct run-out and set vertical grain angle to re-saw bracing correctly
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=443
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=443
ken cierp
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Re: cutting braces from stock
Plus, if you don't get the 1/4 and run out right when you go to carve the brace big chunks will split right off. I know you know how I know!
I've "Ben-Had" again!
Tim Benware
Creedmoor, NC
Tim Benware
Creedmoor, NC
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Re: cutting braces from stock
I know how you know, so you know how I know you know.
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Re: cutting braces from stock
I cut them on the table saw with a high quality thin-kerf (3/32") 10-inch blade titled to match the grain angle, similar to Ken's procedure but on the table saw with the blade tilted. It comes off the saw very smooth needing no extra planing or sanding so it's a time-saver. I could save a little wood with a thin bandsaw blade and then sanding/planing the sides, or maybe by putting a thinner blade on the table saw if I could keep it from vibrating and then needing cleanup anyway. But I'm only losing 3/32" per cut so it's hard to justify the extra time to save (with the tools I have) maybe 1/32" per cut = about 12% of a 1/4" brace. Your mileage and preferences may vary of course.
I have thought about making a dedicated thin-kerf resaw, as I happen to have a little old (very old) table saw in storage that might be stable enough to avoid blade marks. With a good thin 7-1/4" blade it might just squeeze out that extra 12% without taking extra time for cleanup or for changing the blade on the big saw. If I ever get around to trying that I'll post some pics.
I have thought about making a dedicated thin-kerf resaw, as I happen to have a little old (very old) table saw in storage that might be stable enough to avoid blade marks. With a good thin 7-1/4" blade it might just squeeze out that extra 12% without taking extra time for cleanup or for changing the blade on the big saw. If I ever get around to trying that I'll post some pics.
Jay McClellan
http://BrainRight.com
http://BrainRight.com