Manzer wedge

[Bob Matthews]

Hi Dave

If you look back through this thread and find my posts you will see the I 'pre-profiled' my sides prior to bending - you don't have that luxury as your sides were pre-bent, so agree with you that sanding them could take forever.

I'd be looking at cutting the rims with a Japanese pull saw first of all, then refine with a small plane and finally by sanding. But you need to know where to cut them and the only way I know how to do that is by using a solid mould and a radius dish.

If you have a solid mould and a dish? I will endeavour to explain the process so as you cut even cut pre-bent sides.

In the pics you can see what I mean as to how the sides remain perpendicular to the top and how much further the bass side back protrudes from the mould.

I also complicated this build by making it an asymmetric body shape, adding an armrest and also fan fretted 25" scale treble, 26" scale bass.

I'm away from tomorrow til late next week, so can't help you any further until I return :) Good luck tho.

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[Dave Bagwill]

I think I've solved it using the megamold.

1. First I traced the outline of the guitar on the mm, then using masking tape I marked every 2" around the outline and numbered each mark.
2. I also marked 'AP' and 'OAP' for armpit and opposite armpit.
3. The AP is to be at 4", OAP at 4 3/4", the endblock 4 7/8"
4. The line from AP to OAP is the pivot. I released the hinges from the mm, having noted the position of the mm to the center spindle to keep everything square.
--BTW raise the radius bar up high, you'll need that for adjustment
--also MAKE SURE RADIUS ON THE BAR IS DOWN - NOT THE LIKE PICTURES!
5. The key is to raise the mm at the AP-OAP line to the correct height using little blocks whatever - lay a round bar across the line and place some blocks at the end of the bar, mark where it hits the blocks, drill the blocks, insert the bar and clamp the blocks to your bench - or in some way get that bar fixed in position.
6. Now tilt the mm, keeping it flush against the pivot bar at the pivot location, until your tailblock height is correct.
7. Hold that position as you block the elevated mm into position.

So after lunch, I will measure the height of the radius bar above each numbered mark, and proceed to make side templates from paper, that I will tape to the rims and be done with that part.

[Dave Bagwill]

Yeah - I have that written in the instructions above. I used it correctly, but for taking the picture I just placed the bar on there without thinking.
Thanks.

[Dave Bagwill]

Ok here's an easier way than my first method above - easier I think than tilting the spindle, though I could be wrong.
In any case, just 4 bolts and nuts do the trick. No pivot bar etc.

Once you've located the AP (yellow) and AOP (purple? Mauve?) it's pretty easy see pix.
Start with the AOP and set the radius bar to the height you require.
Move to the AP and use the bolt to raise or lower the height at that point.
Re-check AOP.
Adjust the front screws to the headblock height you want.
Re-check and adjust - it's easy, just turn the bolt by hand until it hits the radius bar at the right height.
Takes just a couple of minutes. No pivot bar needed.

[ken cierp]

Tilting the spindle based (insert two shims tighten the base screws) not only allows you to make the templates (bass and treble) but you can also do the actual normal sanding of the rim while its in place in the mold. -- What am I missing?

[Bob Matthews]

It looks to me like you've very nearly got it sorted, well done.

[Dave Bagwill]

Ken you could have saved me a lot of trouble from the get-go!!
I don't know what you're missing if anything - I do know this method is fast and easy.