Who is using Zpoxy for pore filling and why?

[Kevin in California]

Interested in hearing how many of you are using Zpoxy and why you like it. I've tried various fillers and haven't settled in on any one yet.
Thanks.

Kevin

[Tim Benware]

I used to use System 3 SB112 (similar to Zpoxy) and have recently switched to Aqua Coat. Much easier.

[ken cierp]

Tried several of the clear waster borne -- do not like them. Especially don't like that the body changes shape from all the moisture took too many coats and the silica was visible (white) on the real dark woods.

Did some samples using Timbermate -- pretty darn good at filling the pores but of course there is no clarity.

Zpoxy is a little messy to use but works well -- I would only use it under nitro lacquer since it has solvents powerful enough to burn-in --- I do not use shellac, but I've heard that can be a problem either under or over Zpoxy not sure which.

[John Parchem]

I like zpoxy finishing epoxy. It is easy and very forgiving to mix, I can eyeball it. it cures relatively quickly. I can do two sessions in a day if I need to. I also really like the amber cast that it has. I find that while filling it really pops the grain of the wood, and the amber cast helps pull together different colored and sometime clashing wood together. I have west system 105/207 combination that is a finishing grade epoxy and cures water white, but have not used it yet.

I have heard of problems with shellac under Zpoxy. Shellac over zpoxy is fine.

[Kevin in California]

Do you sand back to wood, or do you leave a film of the Zpoxy on the surface?
John, how may coats does it usually take for you to get a sufficient fill?

[John Parchem]

I sand back but always finish up with a thin diluted coat of zpoxy (thinned enough that I can pad it on with a rag). I do not sand or very lightly sand that coat if it ended up with some crud. If you do not leave a coat on the wood will look blotchy under finish.

Generally it takes me three application. What I have found is that on the first application it really needs to be pushed into the pore. I work it in with the flat of a plastic bondo applicator. The pores have air in them and the zpoxy is thick enough that it will quite happily seal in that air in the pores. I have watched some on the forums applying it and squeegeeing off. Every time they sand it level the pores are still there,

While working it in I look for the bubbles to start working through the zpoxy I try to smoosh it into the pores with some pressure. I work it until the bubbles stop. So I like to see the bubbles and then I like to see them go away. The subsequent coats are easier as the voids being filled are not as deep.

[Tim Benware]

Tried several of the clear waster borne -- do not like them. Especially don't like that the body changes shape from all the moisture took too many coats and the silica was visible (white) on the real dark woods.

I haven't experienced any of that on the 2 I have done. Both EIR. I used 3 coats on the first and 2 on the second (could have used a third, so 3 will be my process here on out). I let it dry about 30 minutes between coats and level. By the time I'm done with the last coat the epoxy still has about 20+ hours of dry time and a lot more work to sand it. Plus, there is virtually no clean up with the Aqua Coat, with epoxy there is much more clean up if you re-use your tools. Next one I'll be using it on is Black Limba.