Mega Mold and Stwe Mac Dread Kit

[Jeff Jewitt]

I've watched the Dave Bagwill video a few times and I have a couple of questions.

I am using the MM with the Stew-Mac Dread kit (sorry Ken but I bartered for the kit). I want to use the MM for shaping the top and back rims instead of the angled sanding stick shown by StewMac. Most folks I talked to recommended the MM for getting the neck angle correct. I have the neck and tail blocks glued to the sides so far. From what I can tell the angle on the SM neck is 1.5 degrees.

1. I assume I contour the top first? If the kerfing and neck block protrude from the edges of the sides a bit on the back, I just push the assembly down in the mold as flat as I can and then equalize the height of the neck as shown in the video? Or should I just kerf the top first?

2. Is .051 rise OK for my kit or close enough?

Jeff Jewitt

[Dave Bagwill]

Hi Jeff - did you see this page?
http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/rim2.html

[ken cierp]

I'd recommend sanding the rim flat, installing the ribbon lining, sand flat again --- then follow this procedure.

http://kennethmichaelguitars.com/rimslopeMM.html

Again assuming that the neck cheeks are machined at 88.5 degrees

The way the SM instructions have you glue the top braces to the plate pretty much flattens it out so there really is no reason to bevel the top edge of the rim. The difference from inside to outside of the lining plus side equals about .008" taper, as you know in wood working terms that's flat.

[Jeff Jewitt]

Thanks to you both. I should have looked for the links....

One question - To allow for the neck block 1.5 degree angle on the top rim assembly, should I leave the cardboard in the MM during the rim flat sand, then the final contouring?

JJ

[Jeff Jewitt]

Sorry - am brain dead today. No cardboard necessary to sand/slope top rim - right? Just secure in mold per instructions.......

JJ

[ken cierp]

I was about to type what CB?