Glad you like it, my friends. And good my entangled writing make any sense. You know, what is very clear to me does not have to be that to you.
I do not have any mold for the neckprofile. I just use my eyes, hands and a little ruler for the staight parts of the neck.
Therefore none of my necks are exactly the same. Don't misunderstand, they are not randomly made. They have a determined thickness and width. And certainly have a C, D or flattened profile. But in the end it is a "hand"job for me. (No jokes please!)
So Lonnie go for it! After 10 necks or so you get a "routine" in this job.(Again, no jokes. Ok, maybe one)
Florentine Cutaway
Re: Florentine Cutaway
Ok Herman no jokes. Still think it would make a nice book. I'd buy a copy for sure.
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Dave Bagwill
- Posts: 5951
- Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2011 7:44 pm
Re: Florentine Cutaway
Yes a good book, but I don't read Netherlandic.
-Under permanent construction
Re: Florentine Cutaway
Dave he said no jokes. Probably meant about the hand jobs though. I didn't know they had massage parlors over there.:0/
Re: Florentine Cutaway
Yes we do Lonnie. One day I'll make a massage parlor guitar and call it "Herman's little handjob".
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Kevin in California
- Posts: 2806
- Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2011 4:19 pm
Re: Florentine Cutaway
LOL LOL LOL
Re: Florentine Cutaway
The bulk of the rest from the neck is cut off. I leave the last few millimeters for after attaching the fretboard. It's gonna have a binding, so much room for errors will not be there.
The fretboard was planed to 7 mm. After that I laid out the fretpositions and cut them with my Japanese saw. No pics, not very interesting. Because I want sharp edges on the fretboard, I first plane the most off to about the 16" radius. This helps to avoid too much sanding.
Then the board was tapered to the desired width (minus the binding). At the right position at the body, I nailed down the board. So that the neckbinding falls just on top of the bodybinding.
Checking how the fretboard alligns with the bridgeposition. At the nut you can cheat, lets say 1/2 a mm without noticing afterwards. Because I have a laminated neck, you can't go too far from the centerline.
Through the soundhole I marked the edge to the back of the fretboard and cut it of there (minus the binding and a little extra.) A fretboard just up to the edge of the soundhole does not look pretty to me.
Then I sand the end of the board in a nice rounded shape. (Square!) and bent a piece of binding to that radius.
CA-Glue and accellerator to it and Booom: The end of the fretboard.
The excess flush with the side and glue the rest of the binding to the board:
Dang, this ebony makes all jobs dirty looking.
Question: Would you glue the neck before spraying of after? What looks best on this cutaway/neck joint?
The fretboard was planed to 7 mm. After that I laid out the fretpositions and cut them with my Japanese saw. No pics, not very interesting. Because I want sharp edges on the fretboard, I first plane the most off to about the 16" radius. This helps to avoid too much sanding.
Then the board was tapered to the desired width (minus the binding). At the right position at the body, I nailed down the board. So that the neckbinding falls just on top of the bodybinding.
Checking how the fretboard alligns with the bridgeposition. At the nut you can cheat, lets say 1/2 a mm without noticing afterwards. Because I have a laminated neck, you can't go too far from the centerline.
Through the soundhole I marked the edge to the back of the fretboard and cut it of there (minus the binding and a little extra.) A fretboard just up to the edge of the soundhole does not look pretty to me.
Then I sand the end of the board in a nice rounded shape. (Square!) and bent a piece of binding to that radius.
CA-Glue and accellerator to it and Booom: The end of the fretboard.
The excess flush with the side and glue the rest of the binding to the board:
Dang, this ebony makes all jobs dirty looking.
Question: Would you glue the neck before spraying of after? What looks best on this cutaway/neck joint?