My first build. KMG 'D' kit.

[JoshColvin]

Thanks Dave!

So I waited 24 hours and applied a second coat today. The spots appeared once more. I'm considering ordering some zpoxy and shellac flakes to go that route. I have to investigate and research that method a bit first. Also wondering if I do that, will I have to do the sides over again in order for them to match the look of the back. I'll be perusing french polish threads/articles/videos. I really love the feel of the Tru Oil, however, and it worked out beautifully on the neck. I'll be leaving the tru oil finish as is on the top of the body as well, so the next step beyond the finish is to glue the bridge. I can see the light...I think haha.

[Dave Bagwill]

Josh - do you mind if I send one of your pix to a contact I have at Birchwood-Casey? There should be no reason for you have to go through the trouble of ordering different filler to use.

Oh and btw - I was making a very very lame joke about the A-, because you had a 'C' on your headstock. Yes I am ashamed..:-)

[JoshColvin]

Dave I love lame jokes ha.
You may certainly do that! I really appreciate your efforts to help me out. Don't want you to work too hard though. Thanks again.

[Dave Bagwill]

Here's the response from Sandy Ellerton at Birch-Casey:

Dear Dave,
Thank you for your inquiry.
I checked with a couple of our resident experts, and they aren't completely sure why this is happening.
Below are their thoughts..

-There may actually be some surface oil, wax or silicone that is preventing the Tru-Oil from adhering or penetrating these areas.
Try wiping down with alcohol to clean the surface, and then apply a Tru-Oil coat thinned with mineral spirits, or...
Strip/re-sand, and clean the surface with alcohol prior to reapplying the Tru-oil.

-Tru-Oil is being applied too thin, despite knowing that thin coats are best, and the slight gaps in the grain are not getting a chance to fill and thus building open spaces that are essentially sealing pockets of air appearing white.
Thin some Tru-Oil with mineral spirits to let these areas fill in before returning to standard application coats, or...
Try a heavier non-thinned coat, or...
trip/re-sand, and clean the surface with alcohol prior to reapplying the Tru-oil.

[JoshColvin]

All righty. Thanks again for inquiring on my behalf. In previous attempts to 'start over' I hadn't used a stripper or alcohol or naphtha or the like, I just sanded to bare wood and wiped it with a paper towel and put a coat of the finish on. I'll try using a stripper and some naphtha before reapplying the finish this time. Hope to give it a try later today. Got my fingers crossed.

[Dave Bagwill]

Josh - my fingers have been crossed a couple days now and I have a cramp! :-) Have you tried the process from B-C and did it work??

[JoshColvin]

Haven't found anything to work quite yet, unfortunately. I first sanded back down to wood, then used the JASCO stripper in the photo below. I let it sit on the wood for 15 minutes and then wiped it off. It took the oil out of the pores quite thoroughly! Then I used denatured alcohol and wiped the back down until I was no longer picking anything up on the white rag. Then I went for a different approach of applying the tru oil, and poured a bit on the back and spread it with my fingers till the whole back was covered. Then I wiped it off in the same fashion I'd always done. It took waaaaay more wiping than before, obviously, but I wiped until the excess oil was gone. It looked gorgeous and I was so happy...until about an hour later when I went to take a peak and the spots had appeared once again. So yesterday I stripped and cleaned it again. Tomorrow I may try mixing the TO with mineral spirits before applying. (Hopefully I can get to it tomorrow)

I'm confused by this issue, especially because the top and sides turned out absolutely beautifully. I may end up using a different finish for the back if this next try doesn't work, however I do plan to use TO for future guitars.