Florentine Cutaway

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Dave Bagwill
Posts: 5952
Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2011 7:44 pm

Re: Florentine Cutaway

Post by Dave Bagwill » Wed Apr 30, 2014 4:49 pm

I use a can of Harry & David's Turkey rub for my soundhole bindings to wrap around. I don't like the rub itself, though..
-Under permanent construction

Lonnie B
Posts: 542
Joined: Thu Sep 05, 2013 7:42 pm

Re: Florentine Cutaway

Post by Lonnie B » Wed Apr 30, 2014 4:55 pm

I've heard of the old turkey rub trick. Does it work on chickens as well?

Dave Bagwill
Posts: 5952
Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2011 7:44 pm

Re: Florentine Cutaway

Post by Dave Bagwill » Wed Apr 30, 2014 5:00 pm

Free-range only.
-Under permanent construction

TonyinNYC
Posts: 1510
Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2011 9:00 pm

Re: Florentine Cutaway

Post by TonyinNYC » Thu May 01, 2014 9:17 am

Very professional paint can. Very professional sanding. From where I am sitting, it looks like you know what you are doing.

Herman
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Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 1:20 pm
Location: Arnhem area, the Netherlands
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Re: Florentine Cutaway

Post by Herman » Sat May 03, 2014 11:34 am

Never had that turkey rub, but I sure like Anja's rub. And don't hijack the tread with the can. This is serious matter. :-)

Next: The bending of the sides. This black walnut surprisingly bends like butter. Never had this easy wood.
I cut it straight off at the marked cutawaypoint and bended the cutawaycurve. I was able to bend it right from the edge, so it follows up the figure from the sides.

The match to the neckblock is quite nice. Not a 100% snug fit, but with epoxy no one will notice.
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It worked out to get a smooth curve:
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Nice walnut. Browns, greys, greens, and a bit of orange. Me like.
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Herman
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Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 1:20 pm
Location: Arnhem area, the Netherlands
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Re: Florentine Cutaway

Post by Herman » Mon May 05, 2014 6:46 am

Clamping of the tail- and neckblock.
First the tailblock was clamped. All should be straight and snug. No pics, 'cause there is nothing special to it.

The neckblock has to be flat and perpenducular to the workboard and the sides. I had always some trouble to keep the neckblock flat to the mold, because of the moldfasteners were in the way of clamps. so I thought: why not screw the block to the mold. Therefore I drilled holes though the mold for some screws to be attached in the neckblock. These on a place where later on the dovetail will be routed. No visable marks in the end. Check first if the inside of the mold is perpendicular!
(Before gluing, do a dry-test!). No very hightech, but to my amateur skills, plain brilliant ;-)

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Now glue is applied and all is made together in the complete mold. Screws fastened and the alligment is checked.

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Now it is possible to open the cutawayside the mold, so overall clamping is easier

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ken cierp
Posts: 3924
Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2011 11:23 pm

Re: Florentine Cutaway

Post by ken cierp » Mon May 05, 2014 7:46 am

I have always failed to understand the need/use of those big honk'in toggle things -- for the very reason you've sighted, to me they just get in the way. Great idea securing the neck block from the outside of the mold. We recommend stabilizing the block with screws in our assembly manual, but that is from the inside -- your way is more accessible.

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