Parlor guitar
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Re: Parlor guitar
That's looking really nice, Dave. I can't wait to hear it. The only thing is I get the impression your cat disapproves of something about this build, the CF, perhaps?
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Re: Parlor guitar
Very interesting Dave how you have continued your cf rods to the back of the guitar, I have always attached mine either at or just behind the waist as I have considered that this area is particularly strong and can transmit the forces through a large area. Any reason why you chose to extend your rods?
Bob
Bob
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Re: Parlor guitar
Hi Bob - I'm aware of a few different ways to do this, and I think they probably all work fine. There has been some discussion that the most effective use of the cf rod would be, simply, between the head and tail blocks; when I build my next offset-soundhole instrument, that's what I'm going to try. (As the rod will be more difficult to see, just an aesthetic thing.)
I went this way this time as I think the forces are not angled out, away from the axis, as much as those systems that go to the waist area, and still has enough angle to deal with the headblock rotation.
We shall see!
I went this way this time as I think the forces are not angled out, away from the axis, as much as those systems that go to the waist area, and still has enough angle to deal with the headblock rotation.
We shall see!
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Re: Parlor guitar
Shawn - you may be right about the cat and the cf. She tried biting the rod and found it distasteful. Plus, she is a traditionalist and is not happy that I don't use HHG either!! :-)
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Re: Parlor guitar
I've found that when a player plays one of my guitars and then eventually notices the cf rods inside, they are very interested and it makes a great talking point! :) I have never experienced any negativity about them.Dave Bagwill wrote: (As the rod will be more difficult to see, just an aesthetic thing.)
Obviously tho, with an offset soundhole, they will be difficult to display!
Bob
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Re: Parlor guitar
Back is glued on; using the stewmac tool to remove a tiny bit of the top and back so that I can level the sides - actually, I use the tool just to cut the fibers, then use the KMG channel router table to do the actual cutting. Both of these woods - bubinga, redwood - are 'chippy', and my router blade is none too sharp, so I took the extra precaution, which is not really necessary.
Then plopped the git into my fancy troji and sanded things straight.
Then plopped the git into my fancy troji and sanded things straight.
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