DISASTER - HELP!!!

[Lee in UK]

If it had been a bit further round you could have turned it not a sound hole! (not much help here I know, sorry!)

[Matt Fisher]

I did think about the sound hole idea as soon as it happened but it's just a little too close to the linings! Shame.

Dave - the Tru-oil finish: All surfaces sanded to 600 grit, I only had cheap abrasives so clogging was an issue but I got there in the end. I then applied z-poxy to pore fill the back, sides and neck. I applied it with cheap window squeegee which I cut the ends off to make it about the width of the sides. The off-cuts were great little applicators for the z-poxy on the slotted headstock and around the heel etc.

I sanded the z-poxy between coats but after the second I wasn't completely happy and having not used it before I decided to scrape it back to the wood. This definitely created a lot of work but actually only took an hour or so. Afterwards the pores were still pretty much filled but there was hardly any resin on the surface which I think helped to create a natural finish. I think one more thinned z-poxy coat would have been beneficial but I was unsure about thinning it so I didn't bother.

The oil itself was applied with lint-free polishing cloths (I think they're the sort used in the motor industry) and wiped on with the grain. I used fine steel wool to lightly knock back the finish between coats although I did find a lot of steel wool particles came off (maybe I went cheap on the steel wool) so I tack-ragged it between coats thoroughly.

I think in total I did 8 coats on the soundboard and about 13 or 14 on the remainder. I only buffed it with a polishing cloth and have not experimented with polishes etc. Anyone else tried car polishes or plastic polishes on TO?

[Matt Fisher]

Here's a couple of pics. Not the best shots to show the finish but you get the idea...
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attachment=0]back2.png[/attachment]

front1.png (454.08 KiB) Viewed 2313 times

[ken cierp]

Looks to me like maybe the submitted image is out of the range limits stated in your post -- height

Make the images the same size as your first post and see what happens --- yes Mac picture sharing can be a PITA we have problems frequently exchanging files with family members that use Macs

[Matt Fisher]

Managed to sort it by editing my previous post. Pics are now on, they're not great photos but the back pic shows how well the TO brought out the colour.

Also I forgot to mention that I de-pitched the rosewood first in acetone which meant there was more red and less black in the wood. The amount of oil that comes out of the wood is unbelievable. This definitely improves the grain and colour of rosewood. Probably helps the glue joints too.

[Ray Ussery]

I did think about the sound hole idea as soon as it happened but it's just a little too close to the linings! Shame.

Dave - the Tru-oil finish: All surfaces sanded to 600 grit, I only had cheap abrasives so clogging was an issue but I got there in the end. I then applied z-poxy to pore fill the back, sides and neck. I applied it with cheap window squeegee which I cut the ends off to make it about the width of the sides. The off-cuts were great little applicators for the z-poxy on the slotted headstock and around the heel etc.

I sanded the z-poxy between coats but after the second I wasn't completely happy and having not used it before I decided to scrape it back to the wood. This definitely created a lot of work but actually only took an hour or so. Afterwards the pores were still pretty much filled but there was hardly any resin on the surface which I think helped to create a natural finish. I think one more thinned z-poxy coat would have been beneficial but I was unsure about thinning it so I didn't bother.

The oil itself was applied with lint-free polishing cloths (I think they're the sort used in the motor industry) and wiped on with the grain. I used fine steel wool to lightly knock back the finish between coats although I did find a lot of steel wool particles came off (maybe I went cheap on the steel wool) so I tack-ragged it between coats thoroughly.

I think in total I did 8 coats on the soundboard and about 13 or 14 on the remainder. I only buffed it with a polishing cloth and have not experimented with polishes etc. Anyone else tried car polishes or plastic polishes on TO?

Hi Matt! So sorry for your "Disaster".. like one of your kids getting hurt!
A couple of things for you...don't use ANY polish that contains silicone... you will never be able to repair your finish.

You can use 3M (White = 0000) artificial steel wool and it does a great job...also Siawool is another "Imitation" steel wool that won't leave particles on your finish. I prefer the 3M product...lasts a long time too!

Tru-Oil is a great product.. lots of folks use it...you can spray it and get a great shine by mixing it 2-1 with mineral spirits, let it dry between coats...no need to level after each coat. Then you can sand beginning with 1000 wet and dry then 1500 then 2000....you can go all the way up to 12000 with micro mesh but really no need.

You can also pore fill using Tru-Oil by letting the first couple coats get sticky and then sanding with 600 until it starts drying...wipe it down and look at it...(I use a magnifying glass) to see the pores well...you can leave a little wetter than sticky and do the whole back for instance before it drys on you...works great!

I follow my Tru-Oil with a product called Renaissance Micro-crystalline wax/polish. It's what they use at the worlds best known museums...if it's good enough for the face of the Mona Lisa it's good enough for my guitar. :>)
Look it up and take a look-see...it goes a LOOOONG way!
I've done over 250 electric necks and my own guitars and my Sons guitars...he plays 45 hours a week doing studio work and other venue's, he's used it twice in 3 years and the neck still looks like new... I still have 90% of a 7 oz container left!

Just my .02 Good Luck!

Ray

[Matt Fisher]

Thanks Ray, I've found the micro-crystaline polish on amazon so I think I'll invest in some. I didn't use any polish originally simply because I wasn't sure what would work with the TruOil. Do you use the 3M steel wool between every coat? Some say not to bother for the first few..