Some thoughts on finishing

[Dave Sayers]

That figured maple is a Blues Creek kit.

[ken cierp]

I agree the slab cut material can have interesting grain patterns -- can save you a whole bunch $$ too, since even local lumber yards usually have it in stock. Seems our customers go more for the traditional 1/4 sawn back and side tonewood. Here's Dave d's J200

[TonyinNYC]

I like nitro for the ease of repair and since I brush, I don't worry about the explosions so much. I use Danish oil followed by MinWax Wipe on Poly for my necks. I have considered trying that for the box as well, but I worry I wont get a smooth enough application. Sanding the wipe on poly will result in witness lines. Plus, it flashes off much slower than nitro, so dust becomes a problem. Nitro flashes off very quickly, meaning the surface is dry and no longer tacky within minutes of application. As a result of this quick flash, dust is not a problem. Simply blow it off or tack cloth it off before the next coat and you are good to go. With the Wipe on Poly, the surface stays tacky for a long time, allowing dust and flying insects to get stuck in the finish. Yes, I have had mosquitoes and gnats get stuck in my finish. I am still up in the air about what to finish the next guitars with, so I may end up with Nitro since I know how to use it pretty well at this point.

[Dave Sayers]

Just one small point about using Minwax on figured maple, I looked this morning, and I think some of the oil may have been absorbed into the figure grain, as it has raised a very, very small amount. I know I put enough time into sanding. Once I got over thinking I'd left a hair, I found the effect quite good, but it might not be to everyone's taste.

[ken cierp]

I think you are correct -- different woods and grain patterns abosrb the oil at varied rates. So when the chemical (Tung oil) cures it leaves a rough texture in some areas. I know with furniture, makers keep adding thin coats and make sure it dries between them. Seems the gloss level is the indicator, when the entire surface has the same sheen level, enough has been applied --- now I am just repeating what I've read. I never used the Minwax Tung Oil on a guitar.

[Dave Sayers]

I think you're spot on, Ken, and the experience seems to be the same with Tru oil, or any other linseed based product. I am now using finer, thinner coats and at the first sign of a rough touch a light rub with 1000 grit. I can see why the big makers use quick drying UV polyurethane. It does give a beautiful look in next to no time.

[Dave Bagwill]

The final coat of TO, if mixed 50/50 with min spirits works very well.

Dave d's guitar finish is very nice, though a matter of taste, since what I see in those pics is what the guitar is reflecting, not the wood of the guitar itself, which to me is a lovely thing.

Which is not to take away from the skill it takes to get that kind of reflecting power. And Dave is an excellent builder.