Spray (rattle can) or brush....and schedule (terminology)

[MarkAndrew1]

I've been scanning the forum (specifically in finishing) and
I see some ppl spray (rattle can and some ppl (like Tony aka brush user
extraordinaire) prefer the brush method. I like the idea of using
rattle cans but once the winter comes I won't be able to spray
outside. The brush technique seems to be better for the small shop/
home builder but I'm not so confident in my ability to use the brush
competently. Maybe I can get better at brushing.

Anyway, for my first build (the box now closed and getting ready to check neck
angle) I'm wondering what I should do?

Also, I've seen different spray schedules but is there a simple one
that you can direct me to follow? Do I have to apply a stain to
the guitar first before any lacquer?

Regarding terminology....what does wet/sand and level sand mean? Is
Z-poxy just a pore filler or does it also add color to wood?

Sorry for all the questions. I just want to have a good idea what
I'm doing before I do it.....

[TonyinNYC]

I don't stain and I don't recommend it, so I can't help you there. But I can tell you that your brushing technique does not matter.
What makes the finish look good, and thanks for the compliment by the way, is the sanding that you do after al of your coats are on.
You can definitely spray rattle nitro, rattle can or otherwise, in the winter. You will need to keep the cans in your house to keep them warm, then go outside and spray. I have sprayed in 45*F weather using rattle cans.

Brushing is another issue when it is cold. The lacquer will be very thick and won't flow out too well, but again, the sanding at the end will take care of that. It may take longer to dry as well, since the solvents are less volitile at lower temps and wont gas off as fast. Otherwise, it should be fine.

Wet sanding is the process of leveling and polishing the guitar at the end of the finishing process. It is done with high grit (I start with 600 or 800 grit), wet/ dry sand paper using water and a drop or two of dish soap to help lubricate things. You progress through the higher grits to achieve the desired level of gloss. Finish with rubbing compound and polish by hand or with a buffing machine to get a full, glassy, gloss finish.

Z-Poxy is a pore filler but it is not water clear. It has a slight amber tone to it. However, your coating of Z-Poxy should be so thin, the amber is not a factor. Don't pore fill the top unless it is a hardwood.

For a schedule, that depends on how you will apply your finish. If spraying, I do 3-4 coats in an evening, then 3-4 coats the next day.
For brushing, I used to do 2-3 coats a night, but I have since throttled back to one coat a day. It takes so long for the coat to gas off, I give it a full 24 hours before recoating. I'm in no rush to get 8-10 coats on anyway. And the thicker the coats, the longer the lacquer takes to fully harden. I learned that the hard way!

If I missed anything, let me know.

Level sanding is done between coats, usually after3-4 coats have been applied. You will use a lower grit paper, 320 or 400 and a sanding block to level out the finish. You want to look for low spots that need to be filled, and sand the finish in the surrounding areas down close to the low spots. Add more coats, level again, final coats, then begin wet sanding.

[MarkAndrew1]

I don't stain and I don't recommend it, so I can't help you there. But I can tell you that your brushing technique does not matter.
What makes the finish look good, and thanks for the compliment by the way, is the sanding that you do after al of your coats are on.
You can definitely spray rattle nitro, rattle can or otherwise, in the winter. You will need to keep the cans in your house to keep them warm, then go outside and spray. I have sprayed in 45*F weather using rattle cans.

Brushing is another issue when it is cold. The lacquer will be very thick and won't flow out too well, but again, the sanding at the end will take care of that. It may take longer to dry as well, since the solvents are less volitile at lower temps and wont gas off as fast. Otherwise, it should be fine.

Wet sanding is the process of leveling and polishing the guitar at the end of the finishing process. It is done with high grit (I start with 600 or 800 grit), wet/ dry sand paper using water and a drop or two of dish soap to help lubricate things. You progress through the higher grits to achieve the desired level of gloss. Finish with rubbing compound and polish by hand or with a buffing machine to get a full, glassy, gloss finish.

Z-Poxy is a pore filler but it is not water clear. It has a slight amber tone to it. However, your coating of Z-Poxy should be so thin, the amber is not a factor. Don't pore fill the top unless it is a hardwood.

For a schedule, that depends on how you will apply your finish. If spraying, I do 3-4 coats in an evening, then 3-4 coats the next day.
For brushing, I used to do 2-3 coats a night, but I have since throttled back to one coat a day. It takes so long for the coat to gas off, I give it a full 24 hours before recoating. I'm in no rush to get 8-10 coats on anyway. And the thicker the coats, the longer the lacquer takes to fully harden. I learned that the hard way!

If I missed anything, let me know.

Level sanding is done between coats, usually after3-4 coats have been applied. You will use a lower grit paper, 320 or 400 and a sanding block to level out the finish. You want to look for low spots that need to be filled, and sand the finish in the surrounding areas down close to the low spots. Add more coats, level again, final coats, then begin wet sanding.

Tony....Thank you so much for the in-depth explanation!

So, you don't level sand after every coat of lacquer? Only every 3-4? Just
want to be sure.

Again, thank you so much....

[ken cierp]

To all!

Don't turn your guitar into finishing experiment, get some 10x10 samlples of similar woods and work out your process on those --- the time spent will be rewarded ten fold. $.02

[MarkAndrew1]

To all!

Don't turn your guitar into finishing experiment, get some 10x10 samlples of similar woods and work out your process on those --- the time spent will be rewarded ten fold. $.02

Very good point Ken. I will do that....

[TonyinNYC]

[quote="MarkAndrew1]Tony....Thank you so much for the in-depth explanation!

So, you don't level sand after every coat of lacquer? Only every 3-4? Just
want to be sure.

Again, thank you so much....[/quote]

Oh, you're welcome.

I don't level sand at all usually. I started to do it, but doing it just means I added some sanding time to the process. I did not fin that it shortened the sanding time at the end, so I gave up on it.

[Kevin in California]

If you build up enough, you can just wait until your done applying the finish, then level it.
If you want to try and keep the finish as thin as possible, but level at the end, then you have to start with a really pristine, filled, level surface, and it helps to level once along the way, about half way through your application process as this will give you an idea how much more finish to apply....this is with spraying, and with my exerience and feeble attempts to accomplish this, which has not come out as I have planned yet, but I keep trying.

Kevin