Pinless bridge procedure please

[Dave Bagwill]

I've made up a practice bridge sorta like the one in the OP - but I can't figure out how to make those thin slots. I've tried using a 1/16" bit , in different ways, and can't get those thin clean slots.
Any ideas that can help out?

[John Parchem]

I've made up a practice bridge sorta like the one in the OP - but I can't figure out how to make those thin slots. I've tried using a 1/16" bit , in different ways, and can't get those thin clean slots.
Any ideas that can help out?

A cross vice on a drill press with a 1/16 end mill would help. Or a small milling machine.

[Dave Bagwill]

Ok, I had to look up 'cross-vice' for drill press. Very excellent for what I need. Sounds like a trip to HF is in the works.
Thanks.

Hmm...kinda pricey....

[peter havriluk]

Dave,

Just had a notion wander in...for our light woodworking needs, maybe a compound sliding table (one 'x', one 'y') made out of wood would do the job of that machinist's compound vise. Each of two plates slides between a pair of fences so one plate slides fore-and-aft and the other, holding the first one, slides side to side. Scrap wood, a couple of hours. Maybe it beats buying a machinist's tool for eighty-change bucks for this job.

And maybe the 'top' plate hosts a drill press vice to clamp in the bridge blank?

Free advice is worth what we pay for it....

[Dave Bagwill]

Thanks Peter, I will explore that, it makes sense. I could buy one new, but for the amount I'll be using it, it seems like an unnecessary expense.

[Carl Dickinson]

I haven't made the bridges for the two guitars I'm working on now but will use the suggestion that Clay Schaeffer made over on MIMF using an oscillating tool to cut the slots. I'll practice on scrap a lot first. Maybe clamping a block of wood in place and sliding the blade against it will work to keep it straight. I've used that cutting sides to length in the mold and it worked well.

[Dave Bagwill]

Carl, can you explain that oscillating tool operation a bit?

Edit: this is working pretty well. I first drill the holes to accommodate the ball ends, I drill those all the way to the point at which I want the string to emerge and give a good break angle over the saddle.
The I use a miter bar, a wedge and the bandsaw to cut the slots; I first drill a wee hole where the slot will terminate. The slots are clean, but at an angle.
It works but there is no doubt a better way - just not with the tools in my shop.