Acoustic Guitar Construction

I also like the Rigid a lot. The weak point on the HF may be the table.

I don't use the bottle at all. I just suck up a cc or so into the bulb of a pipette and store it bulb down. A half inch hole drilled in a scrap of wood will hold it. It does not clog the tip of the pipette and doesn't harden or thicken. I have had it like that for weeks.

It looks like there's a dent as well as the cracks. I would align the cracks first, then use a wet cloth and a hot iron to raise the dented wood, then proceed to gluing, leveling and retouching the finish. Be patient and take your time to think through each step. And remember, as I have also learned...

Bubinga is a terrific tonewood and can be anything from plain Jane to stunning visually. Tonally it is excellent. I have had no serious problem bending the sides thinned to .080 or a little less and some Supersoft II. The only issue is that the highly figured pommele set I used as well as some of th...

maple

I use Waterlox for my necks and back of the headstock. I use a sealer coat, then sand the next two or three wet coats with 400 grit to fill the pores and finish up with 3 or 4 more coats all wiped on with a cloth and after the final coat dries, rub out with 0000 steel wool. silky smooth neck. For th...

I based the bracing on the Gibson 1929 L-1 bracing. The first thing I do when starting a new model is deciding on the scale length, then I determined the saddle position for the 24.25 inch scale length and adjust the arms, or shift the x to cover the corners of the bridge. The x angle is about 97 de...