Finish Coating thickness -- pores still visable

[Bob Moore]

I'm going to ask another question here and hope folks look. If not, I'll post a new topic.
I just got home, having been working a project in Beaumont, Tx since last Sun nite. I pulled out the guitar body that I'd put about 10-12 coats of nitro on the b&s, and 6-7 on the top.
Looking closely, I see where there are some pores that are no longer filled. I'm assuming that they shrunk while I was gone.
In my readings, somehow I have the impression that this does shrink, and I'm probably going to need to put some more coats on. My coats were never heavy. I don't like dealing with runs because I seem to over-sand around the run.
If you were looking at what I am seeing, how many coats a day would you put? Would you maybe just concentrate on the open pores if they are not everywhere? They seem to be in a few places on the sides, and 3-4 areas on the back. I'm leaning toward total coats, maybe 1-2 a day for 3-4 days?
Comments? Suggestions?
Thanks as always,
Bob

[ken cierp]

OK -- here's the deal, you may have heard "its not how much coating you put on -- rather how much coating is left on that results in a fine finish" That statement is absolutely true. So if the finisher is fogging on thin spray coats to prevent runs, they are really not accomplishing the goal. Coats of finish (lacquer or whatever) are wet coats. Even wet coats after drying will appear to have pores showing. The goal is to get enough total finish thickness applied so it can be sanded back to the pore "divot" level and they will disappear and blend into the surounding area. This is the key to having a perfectly level surface that is ready for polish.

Sorry but drips, runs and brush marks happen -- I do know techs that can spray on almost perfect coats. And you can too, but getting to know your skills and the capability of you equipment takes time and gallons of material.

So I suggest that you spray on some heavy coats (after you scuff the surface). And while you are at it, spray up some practice panels. The trick to removing drips and runs is to use a scraper or single edge razor blade not sand paper --- that skill is easy to perfect and will make leveling a breeze. $.02

[Bob Moore]

Thanks, Ken, that hit the nail for me.
I remember before - probably when I first started to finish (that sounds weird) that I used razor blades. I had forgotten.
I'll crank on some heavy coats and go at it then.
Thanks again.

[Herman]

If you still have some pores after sanding, putting a little drop of unthinned laquer on the spots will help. Let it cure for a few days and then scaped flush. Works for me.
Herman