Working on my screw down fretboard extension system.
I have a simple routing jig that I position on the center line.
Cut with a pattern bit the 1 5/8" x 2 5/8" pocket, 1/2" deep.
Then I cut a block of mahogany to fit in the pocket and thin it too about .490" thick so it's just below the top surface when sitting in the pocket. Then I cut out a section that will let the block fit around the tenon.
I realized I was out of the hardware for this, the T nuts and machine screws so I had to order them today. My local HD store used to carry the stainless machine screws I use but no longer for some reason. So more later on this.
A new OM starting
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Re: A new OM starting
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Re: A new OM starting
You make nice precise work, a joy to watch!
Herman
Herman
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Re: A new OM starting
Well thank you Herman. I try but I sure have difficulties when it comes to keeping everything on the centerline.
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Re: A new OM starting
Thu Apr 18, 2024 7:20 pm
I'm getting closer to being done on this one.
I wet sanded 600, 800, 1000 and 1500. Then I rubbed the finish by hand with rubbing compound, then polish, then scratch remover.
It's shiny but not as high gloss as when done on the buffing machine using Menzerna compounds.
I don't have room to leave my buffing machine set up all the time so for now it got a hand job. I may still buff it.
I seem to always have some gaps show up along purfling after this stage that for some reason I didn't catch earlier. That is frustrating but at least with nitro lacquer it's easy to fix. I've already done a couple of spots on the side purfling and now I have some small gaps in about 6 places around the rosette purfling.
I usually don't get them on the rosettes, but I used the plastic bwbw purfling left over from my archtop guitar build. I like the nice stark look but used the special glue for gluing plastic to wood and I guess it doesn't have as good gap filling properties as titebond and Fibre or wood purflings that will expand some with the moisture.
Anyway, what I do for these gaps is place pin string tape on either side of the gap...just slightly wider than the area to fill. Then I brush on lacquer over the area. One quick wipe of the brush to float on some lacquer. I leave it to dry and repeat. Usually about 8 or 10 coats will sink in and fill the area just above the tape thickness. I let it dry a couple days the pull the tape and scrape the area flush with a razor blade and sand flush. Blends in and you'd never know there was a gap there. Tedious but works well, doesn't disrupt the rest of the finish and I'm in no hurry.
The frets still need leveling, bridge glued down, tuning machines installed. And probably power buffing.
I'm anxious to hear how she sounds.
I've liked the walnut/redwood combination sound on the 2 I made already.
I'm getting closer to being done on this one.
I wet sanded 600, 800, 1000 and 1500. Then I rubbed the finish by hand with rubbing compound, then polish, then scratch remover.
It's shiny but not as high gloss as when done on the buffing machine using Menzerna compounds.
I don't have room to leave my buffing machine set up all the time so for now it got a hand job. I may still buff it.
I seem to always have some gaps show up along purfling after this stage that for some reason I didn't catch earlier. That is frustrating but at least with nitro lacquer it's easy to fix. I've already done a couple of spots on the side purfling and now I have some small gaps in about 6 places around the rosette purfling.
I usually don't get them on the rosettes, but I used the plastic bwbw purfling left over from my archtop guitar build. I like the nice stark look but used the special glue for gluing plastic to wood and I guess it doesn't have as good gap filling properties as titebond and Fibre or wood purflings that will expand some with the moisture.
Anyway, what I do for these gaps is place pin string tape on either side of the gap...just slightly wider than the area to fill. Then I brush on lacquer over the area. One quick wipe of the brush to float on some lacquer. I leave it to dry and repeat. Usually about 8 or 10 coats will sink in and fill the area just above the tape thickness. I let it dry a couple days the pull the tape and scrape the area flush with a razor blade and sand flush. Blends in and you'd never know there was a gap there. Tedious but works well, doesn't disrupt the rest of the finish and I'm in no hurry.
The frets still need leveling, bridge glued down, tuning machines installed. And probably power buffing.
I'm anxious to hear how she sounds.
I've liked the walnut/redwood combination sound on the 2 I made already.
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Re: A new OM starting
Good work mate,
Those sags in the purfling area are always a drawback. I too have them on regular basis. I fill them with the used finish just before the final layers. Anyway, fine job. You will figure this out.
Herman
Those sags in the purfling area are always a drawback. I too have them on regular basis. I fill them with the used finish just before the final layers. Anyway, fine job. You will figure this out.
Herman
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