Zero Glide nut

Nuts -- Saddles -- Fret dressing -- Intonation -- Neck Relief
peter havriluk
Posts: 957
Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2012 12:30 pm
Location: Granby, CT

Re: Zero Glide nut

Post by peter havriluk » Wed Sep 06, 2017 11:35 pm

I think a 'zero glide' nut will function as a zero fret only as long as it holds the strings a fret's height off the fingerboard. And I can't in my limited experience see how the zero glide fret can be levelled with the other frets as part of the fingerboard setup. Am I missing something?
Peter Havriluk

Dave Bagwill
Posts: 5945
Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2011 7:44 pm

Re: Zero Glide nut

Post by Dave Bagwill » Wed Sep 06, 2017 11:45 pm

It works great, Pete, and is easier in fact than the standard approach. I make my own 'zero-glide nut' with a method I've developed but I'm not saying one type of nut or the other is 'better' - it's not that big a deal. That being said, the zero-fret approach makes a lot of sense to me.
-Under permanent construction

ken cierp
Posts: 3924
Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2011 11:23 pm

Re: Zero Glide nut

Post by ken cierp » Fri Sep 08, 2017 12:26 pm

The whole idea behind the zero nut desgn is that the slot bottom height off the finger board can be adjusted

Dave Bagwill
Posts: 5945
Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2011 7:44 pm

Re: Zero Glide nut

Post by Dave Bagwill » Mon Sep 18, 2017 11:56 pm

Here's a few pix of my 'zero-glide' process. Works surprisingly well.

First I use a poly cutting board from WMart - it is 3/16" thick, which is the measurement I want for my nuts and saddles. I just pop a nut into the slot in the board, and sand away until it is flush - done.

I then put the nut into the nut slot, and use a sharpened dowel's point, which I've made to be flush with the bottom of the dowel, blackened with a Magic Marker to ink the point, then draw 2 lines on the nut - a line like we would draw with the half-pencil, on the same plane as the frets, and then a line just at the fb end. I want to cut a slot that takes out the lines and the material between them, just deep enough to fit 1/2 of the fret (no tang). That is done on the Dremel, and I use a little homemade fence with the Fret press caul for the fingerboard radius (16") clamped under it to use as a template. Once it is set up, it's a snap to route out the ledge for that part of the fret.

The other part of the fret lies on the fb, of course, plus I do two things: first I use the Fret Barber to remove all the barbs and part of the tang, to get it nice and thin; then I remove a sliver of the fb, just the size of the tang. Then I temporarily place the nut, slide the fret onto the nut 'ledge' and the tang into its tiny recess and the rest of the fret onto the fb and, with always a little tweaking, that part is done.

Now I have to shape the nut and cut the string guides, which is a cinch for zero-fret nuts, polish it up and done.
Attachments
DSC00020.JPG
DSC00020.JPG (124.45 KiB) Viewed 1412 times
DSC00022.JPG
DSC00022.JPG (165.6 KiB) Viewed 1412 times
DSC00023.JPG
DSC00023.JPG (142.61 KiB) Viewed 1412 times
DSC00024.JPG
DSC00024.JPG (138.79 KiB) Viewed 1412 times
DSC00025.JPG
DSC00025.JPG (150.68 KiB) Viewed 1412 times
DSC00027.JPG
DSC00027.JPG (135.93 KiB) Viewed 1412 times
DSC00028.JPG
DSC00028.JPG (164.66 KiB) Viewed 1412 times
DSC00029.JPG
DSC00029.JPG (138.81 KiB) Viewed 1412 times
-Under permanent construction

Post Reply