Construction Log for KMG J45-Style Dreadnought

[dave d]

Introduced by Gibson in 1942 as one of the dreadnought acoustics to compete with Martin's 'D' line, and often referred to as "The Workhorse."

Peruvian Walnut back and sides, Sitka spruce top, abalone rosette, cherry/walnut laminated neck.

Setting up the mold with the template.

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Make sure the template is centered.

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Post is placed near the innermost waist curve.

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Sides are placed in the mold and marked at the centre line for cutting.

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I use my bench-hook and a japanese pull-saw to cut the side at the marked location.

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Sides placed back in the mold to check for fit.

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Drill a couple of holes for the nails to hold the sides in place when you are gluing.

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Neck block being clamped to the sides.

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A little bit of glue squeeze-out is a good sign.

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Neck and tail blocks glued to the sides.

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[dave d]

On to the next steps: kerfing and profiling.

After wetting and pre-bending the kerfing, it is glued to the top side of the rim.

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The top edge is lightly sanded with a sandpaper-covered piece of stock so the edge has a flat plane.

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The rim and neck/tail block are all in a flat plane.

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The sides are flipped over so the top is facing down, and the kerfing is glued to the back side.

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Kerfing shown on both the top and back sides.

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Cedar reinforcing pieces are glued to the sides.

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Profiling the top: Take a measurement using feeler gauges at the front part of the neck block.

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Transfer the measurement to the collar on the spindle. This is the distance the sanding bar will drop to when the neck angle is properly profiled.

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Photo showing neck block mid-way through sanding. Pencil marks gauge your progress.

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Side view of the mold, showing the angle that the neck block is sanded to.

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[dave d]

Profiling the back, and getting the abalone strips into the rosette channel.

now to put the 15' radius on the back edge.

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I like to check the fit of the back on the rim, just to get an early look even though the bracing isn't on yet.

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The sitka spruce top.

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Trial fit of the abalone strips and purfling.

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Sealing the rosette channel with lacquer to prevent the CA glue from seeping into the spruce and turning it a weird color.

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Everything back in place and CA wicked in.

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Scraping to level it out with the top.

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Scrape scrape scrape. Be careful to not tear the spruce when going across the grain.

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Rosette done for now.

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[Dave Bagwill]

Thanks for posting Dave, I never get tired of watching a building log. The macro tips were good also.

[ken cierp]

Awesome!!! As usual. Very enjoyable to follow -- Thank you

[Jackspt28]

Beautiful work!! Like the bench hook for trimming the sides, will have to use that idea! Thanks for posting. Jack.

[Kevin in California]

Coming along very well in deed. You have to love abalone rosettes!

Kevin