Acoustic Guitar Construction in the small shop -- Kenneth Michael Guitars LLC

Information, ideas and help for those constructing scratch built acoustic guitars or acoustic guitar kits - © 2017
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The purpose of this forum site is to provide a means for acoustic guitar makers at all skill levels to forward information, share experience and ask questions if project obstacles are encountered. We ask that egos be left at the door – the highest levels of courtesy and respect are to be shown to all. Posts containing disparaging comments will be removed. The “Acoustic Guitar Construction Forum” is owned by Kenneth Michael Guitars and is copy protected. Direct links to luthier suppliers are not permitted and will be edited.



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 Post subject: Binding purfling gaps
PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 10:29 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2011 3:50 pm
Posts: 389
What is a good method and materials to sew this crack up? I read somewhere on forum about dust and ca glue


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 Post subject: Re: Gap filling
PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 10:39 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 29, 2012 12:30 pm
Posts: 646
Location: Granby, CT
Is the gap between the binding and the purfling? Is the binding loose?

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 Post subject: Re: Gap filling
PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 11:52 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2011 3:50 pm
Posts: 389
Gap is between the back plate and purfling. The binding is not loose.


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 Post subject: Re: Gap filling
PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 12:08 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 1:20 pm
Posts: 984
Location: Arnhem area, the Netherlands
If the channel is right you can heaten the place and try to push the binding dowwn.
If the channel is routed too deep, you need filling. You can choose for making it black as the inner purfing, but here I would choose filling with a brown/rosewood maching color. Either way it with show somehow.
This is exactly why I will buy me a better binding-router-guide soon.
FWIW
Herman


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 12:29 pm 
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You should be able to apply some heat and soften the glue -- use filament packaging tape to pull the purf and binding tight to the back plate.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 5:34 pm 
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Great ideas thanx fellas


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 10:21 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 23, 2011 8:33 pm
Posts: 1814
Location: Seattle
I use a heat gun to heat the binding; careful not to scorch the wood. I first put some glue in the gap and heat the binding with the heat gun, it does not take long. I watch the glue in the gap that I put in when I see it change (can not describe it but it takes on a different look.) I use tape to pull the binding tight. You will get a bit of squeeze out from the new glue you put in.

I got this procedure from Rick Davis, a luthier I took a class from. It should close what I see in the photo. If the binding are bridging a curve, or bowed out where the wood would need to either stretch or shrink to close the gap this will not work. But most of the time it does close the gaps.

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